Big Oops

[southerncub]

Yeah the whole tractor needs a good lookover by a good mechanic, or someone who's good with these cubs. I'm reading up on them and learning, and I love tinkering, but I myself am only a half( U know what ) shade tree mechanic, not a good one either. LOL. I know my basics, but other than that, that's all you get from me. I really need to load this thing up and take it to someone who can tear it down and rebuild it for me. It runs, but it's begging UNCLE!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Rudi]

Shane:

I love tinkering, but I myself am only a half( U know what ) shade tree mechanic, not a good one either. LOL.

If you can change spark plugs, oil and know what end of a wrench has the box end then you can do this. I know from personal experience that a nudninck non-mechanic can do it (yeah.. that would be me ), then someone who can play mechanics can get a Cub up and running. It isn't rocket science just basic mechanics. The manuals, especially the Blue Ribbon Service Manuals are so complete that you can simply walk your way through it by reading those manuals. When you have questions, simply post em and the guys here will help you through the problem. The knowledge base here is so great that it would take dozens of IH mechanics with decades of experience on Cubs to equal it. That is what you have available to you.

Along with the How To's/How I Did Thatin the CBoK, there really is very little that cannot be done by a Cub owner with the help of the guru's in our membership.

I poured the rest of the oil out of the cup, and let me tell ya that screen is absolutely filthy. This poor tractor needs some big time maintenance done to it. I can't manage to remove the air filter screen from the tractor, is there a trick to this? Manual didn't really get to detailed with that part. Thanks in advance!!!!!!

Shane, the page below is from the TC-37C Parts Catalog and shows the Oil Bath Filter.



You can see where the #8 points to - which is the body of the Oil Bath Filter Housing. There are two bolts that hold that Oil Bath Filter Housing to the block. If you look at the #6 it will show you a threaded fitting much like a compression fitting on a brake line. This connects the Crankcase Vent Tube to the Oil Bath Filter Housing. Remove part #7 which is the Breather Cap. Remove the Air Cleaner Pipe assembly from the Oil Bath Filter Housing - part #'s 11-13. Now to remove the Oil Bath Filter Housing, simply remove part #6 and the 2 bolts that hold part #8 to the Block. The Oil Bath Filter Housing will then come off of the block.

Once the Oil Bath Filter Housing has been removed from the block and is free, you can clean the filter by submerging it in kerosene and letting it soak. Dip and soak a number of times and it will come clean. It may take some time so enjoy the process. You can clean the Breather Cap the same way.

[awander]

It really doesn't take more than a half-***** mechanic to work on a Cub. I should know!

[southerncub]

Well thank y'all for the vote of confidence, I am trying to get better at my mechanic skills. Yeah the cub doesn't seem too terribly hard to work on. I just need to have a little more patience at times I guess. I know one thing, it's not going anywhere, I'm fully intrigued by this little tractor now, hope to give it to my kids one day

[Denny Clayton]

Well thank y'all for the vote of confidence, I am trying to get better at my mechanic skills. Yeah the cub doesn't seem too terribly hard to work on. I just need to have a little more patience at times I guess. I know one thing, it's not going anywhere, I'm fully intrigued by this little tractor now, hope to give it to my kids one day

Just be sure to show them where to pour the oil!

[Pagano8]

I know this is a old post but I did the same thing except I hydro locked my engin everything was filled with oil, so I took the plugs out and got most of the oil out, and changed the plugs and now she is running really rough I'm not sure what I should do at this point

[Eugene]

I know this is a old post but I did the same thing except I hydro locked my engin everything was filled with oil, so I took the plugs out and got most of the oil out, and changed the plugs and now she is running really rough I'm not sure what I should do at this point

First thing is to see if there is any oil in the crankcase. The dip stick and oil fill location is on the lower left side of the engine.

Read through this entire topic. Follow the suggestions.

The only way you can get enough oil into a cylinder to hydro lock is to pour oil into the air cleaner. And then it will take a lot of oil.

You will need to change spark plugs, perhaps several times, to get the engine running properly.

[Pagano8]

Thank u man there is no dipstick on mine just two plugs, I just changed the plugs today, I ran it for about a hour today ill run it tommorow again and then change the plugs again, it lacks power and bogs down when there's strain on it or reves up and down

[staninlowerAL]

I know this is a old post but I did the same thing except I hydro locked my engin everything was filled with oil, so I took the plugs out and got most of the oil out, and changed the plugs and now she is running really rough I'm not sure what I should do at this point

First thing is to see if there is any oil in the crankcase. The dip stick and oil fill location is on the lower left side of the engine.

Read through this entire topic. Follow the suggestions.

The only way you can get enough oil into a cylinder to hydro lock is to pour oil into the air cleaner. And then it will take a lot of oil.

You will need to change spark plugs, perhaps several times, to get the engine running properly.

Thank u man there is no dipstick on mine just two plugs, I just changed the plugs today, I ran it for about a hour today ill run it tommorow again and then change the plugs again, it lacks power and bogs down when there's strain on it or reves up and down

Eugene, from another post on the A, SA foum I think he is referencing a FARMALL A.

[Eugene]

Stan: Figured that out when he described the two petcocks to determine oil level in the crankcase.

Pagano8: Time for a complete engine tune up, starting with compression tests.

[Pagano8]

Stan: Figured that out when he described the two petcocks to determine oil level in the crankcase.

Pagano8: Time for a complete engine tune up, starting with compression tests.

Thank you fellas, do u guys use a certain website to order parts from, because any of these auto stores they look at u like ur crazy when u start asking

[Eugene]

I get my tractor tune up parts from the local auto parts stores. NAPA, Federated, O'Reilly, Etc., handle the parts. Just have to asked the old guy behind the counter. Many have the parts in stock. If not in stock, they can order the parts.

Visit the auto parts store during the normal work day when the older, more experience folks are working.

Tractor parts are sometimes, not very often included in the store's computer. But, the stores have catalogs listing the parts.

There are a number of mail order catalog companies dealing only in tractor parts. I like Valubilt, which offers a free catalog, just sign up on line.

Hew Holland, Cub Cadet dealers can obtain the parts for IH tractors.

[Jim in SC]

Kinda reminds me of when I was restoring my Cub. Had the oil pan and head off, etc., so no oil in the engine at all. Once I got it all back together and
fresh oil added, I had to prime the oil pump per the manual. I took off the oil filter cap and removed the oil filter and used an oil can to fill the small hole in the front of the oil filter carrier with priming oil. No problem, right? Um, then I hit the starter to see if it was primed...

It was. And I was wearing a lot of the pumped oil on my shirt. It really had good pressure! LOL!