Throwout Bearing Failed/Transmission "Clatter"

My throwout bearing completely disintegrated while plowing the garden, even though it was new 2 years ago when my '58 Cub got running again. Prior to that it had sat for 25+ years.

Since the rebuild, I had a vibration whenever the clutch was engaged. It went away when I let off the clutch pedal. If I was at minimum idle, pushing the clutch would stall the engine.

And I also have a clatter in the transmission area in Reverse and 1st gear. It is louder under a load, such as plowing or going up a hill. My mechanic checked the transmission and found a gear that had a tiny crack. We replaced it thinking that it might be enough to cause the noise, but the clatter persists. Also have a new clutch.

Any thoughts? I don't want to just put in a new throwout bearing if there are other issues that need to be addressed.

Thanks.

Michael Evans

bearing was probably ruined by a mal adjusted clutch. Shouldn't chatter, when the pedal is depressed. Were the clutch fingers adjusted, when the bearing was replaced, previously? Clatter in the tranny could be a chipped gear, that was missed, or a worn reverse?first slider bushing or gear. Ed

Michael:

As Ed said, sounds like the fingers were not adjusted properly. You might want to read this How To Adjust Clutch Fingers. Check out the areas Ed indicated for the other noises.

If you are having trouble trying to get it adjusted next weekend is the NE Cubfest, probably about the closest one to you, lots of cubbers will be there and will help with your cub
Tim

When the TOB was replaced two years ago, was it an OEM or aftermarket. If aftermarket, that could be part of the problem.

Bob

I keep forgetting a couple of things when it comes to the TOB and one of them is the after-market TOB's.

When the TOB was replaced two years ago, was it an OEM or aftermarket. If aftermarket, that could be part of the problem.

Bob

As Bob said that can play a big part. Another thing I keep forgetting is that you need to load the TOB with lubricant before installing it. The cheapest grease you can find, the kind that breaks down quickly and will soak/load up the graphite. A dry TOB will fail rather quickly no matter if it is an OEM or even an after-market one. The after-market ones are really not worth the price or the time wasted.

Thanks everyone for the information. Adjusting the clutch fingers is not looking really clear to me, but perhaps because I have no idea what it all looks like inside. I don't know if my TOB was OEM or aftermarket, but will try to find out.

NE Cubfest looks interesting - I might try to attend. It's only 3 hours away. It looks as though someone else is bringing a TOB project. I'll try to find out more specific to that project on the Cubfest NE 2011 thread.

... NE Cubfest looks interesting - I might try to attend. It's only 3 hours away. ...

Come on over. It is well worth a 3 hour drive. I drive over 8 to get there. Time well spent.

Bill

... NE Cubfest looks interesting - I might try to attend. It's only 3 hours away. ...

Come on over. It is well worth a 3 hour drive. I drive over 8 to get there. Time well spent.Bill

Bill...Will you be bringing that new trailer for me/us to drool all over ?

... NE Cubfest looks interesting - I might try to attend. It's only 3 hours away. ...

Come on over. It is well worth a 3 hour drive. I drive over 8 to get there. Time well spent.Bill

Bill...Will you be bringing that new trailer for me/us to drool all over ?

Dave, NO drooling, on trailers! Slippery trailer decks are dangerous! Ed

Before you invest in new TOB, check this out:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61590&hilit=chevrolet&start=45#p507630

Much cheaper than new graphite TO bearing. I've been using the chevrolet bearing for several months, doing grading work on campsite pads 2-3 times a week. Very intensive clutch work. So far no problems.

Tulalipjames, Do you remember what the cost was to machine the graphite bearing to allow insertion of the Chevy TOB?

Thanks, Bob

"Wow!" is all I can say on the graphite versus roller-bearing TOB controversy. Way over my head - which now hurts from reading that post. But it's nice to see all the passion from different points-of-view handled in a relatively respectful way.

I'm inclined to stick with OEM graphite, since, as far as I know, the original graphite TOB lasted around 30 years. Replacement lasted less than one year, but I cannot say the operator kept his foot off the clutch or that it wasn't the result of mal-adjusted fingers, etc. $45+ for something that lasts 25-40 years seems okay with me.

Can I expect that a Case/I-H dealer will carry a replacement OEM graphite bearing? I'm thinking I'll pick one up and perhaps bring it and my Cub to Cubfest NE and beg for help.

Michael:

I would expect that a dealer should have an OEM part, but with dealers you never know. My CaseIH dealer used to have OEM carb kits but now all they stock are aftermarket Specter kits so I never take anything for granted. However, TM Tractor does have the OEM replacement TOB original clutch release bearing and retainer, 350921R11



Unfortunately they are a bit more expensive than $45.00 +/- .... The cheaper ones are usually aftermarket.

Messick's shows the same price - 350921R11 Retainer Qty in stock: 2 Days to order: 3-5 business days

Whichever brand you choose, make sure that it is fully saturated with grease BEFORE you install it.