Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:34 am
Eugene wrote:Basicaly you have a standard battery operated ignition system. Some place along the line the coil in the magneto has been disconnected and an external coil added.
A simple check first. Remove the wire from the side of the magneto. Remove the wire from the center of the distributor/magneto cap and lay it next to the engine block so that you have a 1/4" gap between the end of the wire and the engine block. Turn on the ignition. Touch the wire removed from the side of the magneto to the magneto. Then remove. If there is a spark the problem is in the magneto points.
No spark. You need a test light or multimeter to check out the ignition system. With ignition switch on, starting at the wire from the side of the magneto - start checking for battery voltage at each junction/connection - tracing the wiring back to the battery. Once you find battery voltage - the problem will be the previous appliance or wire between the voltage and the previous junction/connection.
Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:28 am
Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:34 am
Stanton wrote:1. The test above says to "Turn on the ignition." Does that mean only turn on the switch, or turn on the switch and engage the starter?
Stanton wrote:2. What's the purpose of placing the center wire 1/4" away from the block?
Stanton wrote:3. Also, if no spark, could it be due to the burnt out points under the rotor cap?
Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:38 am
Turn on the ignition switch, no need to engage the starter.Stanton wrote:Need some clarification:
1. The test above says to "Turn on the ignition." Does that mean only turn on the switch, or turn on the switch and engage the starter?.
You are looking for a spark at the 1/4" gap.2. What's the purpose of placing the center wire 1/4" away from the block? .
At this point in the initial test, the magneto points are not involved. You are using the wire removed from the side of the magneto as the points. Touching and removing the wire removed from magneto is substituting for the points.3. Also, if no spark, could it be due to the burnt out points under the rotor cap?.
Digital reading multimeters - it doesn't make any difference. Analog (needle) positive/red lead to ground.4. I have a multimeter. On the advice above, do I leave the black lead from the multimeter on the side post at the magneto and start using the red (positive) lead at each electrical connection until I see voltage?.
The coil is disconnected from the tractors wiring when you open the ignition switch and remove the wire from the side of the magneto.5. Can I test the ignition coil while it's still connected to the tractor's wiring or do I need to remove the wiring to/from the coil?.
Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:04 am
Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:36 pm
Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:57 pm
Rudi wrote:Pretty much accepted that I will have to pull start her to get her going.
Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:14 pm
Stanton wrote:I've never pull-started a tractor before. Obviously, a running tractor pulls the non-running tractor, but beyond that, how's it done?
Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:41 pm
Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:42 am
Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:52 am
Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:54 am
Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:56 am
Bigdog wrote:Stanton - the click should occur just at TDC. That's why we set the timing mark on tdc and then rotate the mag to get it to trip. The arcing under the cap is an indication that there is a problem with the cap / rotor button. Since you are using the distributor portion of the mag make sure the rotor button is in time with the drive. It could be that the rotor button is not on center when ignition occurs. The arcing usually comes from moisture in the cap and once a carbon path is established the problem only gets worse.
Have you confirmed that you are getting spark from your coil yet?
Fri Dec 09, 2011 1:06 pm
Not what I intended. If the points are open you will not get a spark.Stanton wrote:I'm not getting a spark at the coil-to-engine block when the magneto wire is removed-retouched to mag post.
Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:51 pm