Clutch Grinding

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cjpenny89
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Clutch Grinding

Postby cjpenny89 » Thu Feb 24, 2005 12:34 pm

Ok guys I hate to even ask this question. I am no dummy when it comes to fixing things.
Usualy when I have fixed clutches on cars and on our other tractors they would grind because the presure plate was wore out or the clutch was wore so bad it was slipping.
I keep hearing that you adjust the clutch presure plate on the cub.
Before I go and buy a new clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disk, THB)
Should I try adjusting the pressure plate first? The fingers?
COuld it be the Graphit throw out bearing is just wore down and it isn't pushing the clucht in far enough? OR could it be I need to readjust the fingers? Or both? It grinds when I pull in the clutch and go to put it in gear it will grid real quick till I get it in gear. What do you guys think? Just split it and put in a new kit or try adjusting it first?
Thanks
Chad

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cjpenny89
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Postby cjpenny89 » Thu Feb 24, 2005 12:41 pm

Ok I just dug out my 56 cub manual and read the clutch part and it sounds like what I thought I need to adjust the clutch to have 1" free play I am sure it has way more than that. My 48 has from what I understand never been torn apart. It sat from 1973 to 1998 in a barn in Canada where I fianly picked it up had about 5" of dust and crude on it. That baby fired right up the original tires are bald as could be and they are still on there getting to the point where there gonna bust out the side but they worked good for 7 years as turf tires. Anyway I am sure this clutch has not been replaced ever. I will check out the free play and see if I can fix that!
Chad

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Feb 24, 2005 12:48 pm

It is a common problem on the old ones for the graphite bearing to wear off and result in the clutch fingers striking the throwout bearing case. If that's the case adjusting it may help the gear grinding, but not the noise when you push it down. If you need to split and repalcing the to, don't get an aftermarket graphite one. They are shipped dry, but the IH ones are prelubricated.
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cjpenny89
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Postby cjpenny89 » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:04 pm

Thanks I will be sure to get the IH one

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EZ
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Postby EZ » Thu Feb 24, 2005 3:38 pm

cj,

Just curious to know how far North of Duct Tape Border you had to go for that Cubby? Or did you head Southeast?
Just Do It !

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Postby EZ » Thu Feb 24, 2005 3:42 pm

Oh, I should add that my Loboy sat about that long as well. I found out later after splitting it that the throw out bearing (graphite) was broken, and that is most likely the reason it was put away. The Clutch was brand new, the grinding was also being caused by the fact that the fingers had to be adjusted.

It's not a bad job, and can be done from the handhole. You should be able to get a good look at the TOB from there as well.
Just Do It !

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cjpenny89
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Postby cjpenny89 » Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:13 am

It was only about 15 minutes into Winser hope I spelled that right.
maybe 15-25 minutes once I got over the bridge in detroit. Customs gave me no problems bringing it back. I took one look at it and said I would take it we used a come along to load it on the trailer and it came with a front blade and a 5' finish mower. It wasn't froze up but the guy couldn't get it started. !5 minutes after we got it home we were driving it around just had to add fresh gas and do one important thing pull out the kill switch. They told me the mag was shot and it had no spark. 7 years later it is still running and I have only put new plugs and wires and cap and rotor. Still have not cleaned the carb it runs to good. I gave $1200 us for it.

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EZ
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Postby EZ » Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:21 am

I'd say you did alright.
Paid approx. $1500US for my '49, it has a front blade but no mower.
I put a few $$ into her, but it's the best.

I'd like to try mowing with it some day, but not many of those available around here.
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