Helicoils

[farmallcub49]

I am in need of a helicoil to repair the po's mistake of not use a pipe fitting. I went to the local auto value and asked about it. They didn't stock it, but could order the kit; no hold onto your seats for $200.00!!!! After I pulled myself off the floor and pick up the stool I had been sitting on, I said thanks, but no thanks. I like to do things myself; I can't learn any other way, but that was outragous. So I guess I'll have to have to go the machine shop way, hopefully someone in town has one. I even checked with the local auto/bike shop and they couldn't do it. Any of you Minnesotans out there have any go suggestions?

Thanks

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

What are you working on?

[farmallcub49]

Oops forgot to mention that John.

I am working on the carb inlet.

[Jim Becker]

Fix it with JB weld. I think Cub-Bud wrote up a procedure in his carb stuff on Rudi's server. If you can't find it there, I can describe how I did it.

[John Niekamp]

If ya need a heli-coil kit, let me know. We have about every size with several extras available at work to lend out, all it would cost you is for the shipping to and from, and that you send it back to me and what the insert would cost. Unless you have some already.

OR you could send the top half to me and I would install one or both for you. No charge, except for the insert(s) and shipping to and from. I can't remember off the top of my head, but if it's 5/16-18 I have that set myself with several inserts. I bought mine 20 some years ago and it was a LOT cheaper than 200 bucks, lol

John

[farmallcub49]

Jim,
I have the JB Weld repair instructions. I think I'll that first I guess.

John,
Thanks for the offer, I believe it is 1/4 x 18. I may take you up on it if the JB don't fix it.

[George Willer]

I am in need of a helicoil to repair the po's mistake of not use a pipe fitting. I went to the local auto value and asked about it. They didn't stock it, but could order the kit; no hold onto your seats for $200.00!!!! After I pulled myself off the floor and pick up the stool I had been sitting on, I said thanks, but no thanks. I like to do things myself; I can't learn any other way, but that was outragous. So I guess I'll have to have to go the machine shop way, hopefully someone in town has one. I even checked with the local auto/bike shop and they couldn't do it. Any of you Minnesotans out there have any go suggestions?

Thanks

The P.O. may have not made a mistake! That is NOT supposed to be a pipe thread. The correct thread is close to 1/4" pipe, but it is actually 1/2 x 20. Many of those threads have been ruined by FORCING them to become 1/4" pipe. Check it with a 1/2 x 20 tap... maybe you can save it.

[Ron L]

IF you are talking about the two holes in the top that connects to the manifold at the gasket, they are 1/4-20. If you are talking about the gas line inlet, then as George says, its 1/2-20. I would suggest installing heli-coils at the 1/4-20 holes if that's your problem. Mine has 1/4-20 studs with 1/4-28 threads on the nut side to attach the carb. They usually get plenty of tourque pull, when making the gasket area leak free ............

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Ron, try some Copper-Coat gasket sealant on it. Won't need to pull quite so tight.

[Ron L]

John. Thanks for the tip. Always good to have some on hand. On my post, I was talking in general terms, not speaking of myself. Just the pressure this area takes and what most do to insure no leakage .....

[John Niekamp]

Sorry, I was thinking it was the mounting surface to the intake manifold, I remember now they are 1/4-20 studs.

I don't own my own set for 1/4-20, but as I said I have access to them. So there wouldn't be any problem getting them for you to use.

The Jb weld for the fuel inlet looks like it would work real good and I did see the Luker Carl's procedure on Rudi's server. I would try that first then go on with the Heli-coil plan. Looks like it would work real fine too.

But If you do need to put an insert, we also have the 1/2-20 inserts and kits, HOWEVER, I really can't remember how much room on the bossed area on the inlet to accommodate using a heli-coil insert, without looking at mine.
I would also (if it was me) would want to place the top half of the carburetor clamped in a mill vice and use this to keep everything real solid and in the center of the original hole. If memory serves me there is a taper (flare) in the bottom of the hole that actually does the seating of the nipple.

My three reason for using a mill, if using a Heli-coil: Just some food for thought and just my opinion

A: To keep it in the center of the hole.
B: To keep from taking out or destroy the seating taper surface.
C: The Rigidity, over using a hand drill or even a drill press. Even though a drill press would work, if you have everything bolted to the table and are real careful. Remember drill bits WILL "grab" in this soft material, and if you know how to hand grind a negative edge on the flutes of the bit, you can overcome the grabbing problem. We have had a LOT of jobs brought in by our customers, who have tired doing things themselves and something like what I have just said has happened. I don't blame them, I like to try to do things myself too. (The ones I really hate is the jobs with a tap or easy-out broken off in the hole or holes)

Let me know if I can help ya out,

John

[Jim Becker]

HOWEVER, I really can't remember how much room on the bossed area on the inlet to accommodate using a heli-coil insert, without looking at mine.
. . .
If memory serves me there is a taper (flare) in the bottom of the hole that actually does the seating of the nipple.

That is where the Helicoil approach has some problems. Got a 1/2-20 Helicoil bottoming tap?

[John Niekamp]

Jim, that too is NO problem, as I say, the shops has many sets of the Heli-coil band in just about every size they make both SAE and metric.

Usually order a few extra heli-coil taps for each set and grind up our own bottoming taps, cheaper that way , lol!

John

[farmallcub49]

Thanks Everyone for all the help. George you get an extra pat on the back for pointing this cubber in training. I was able to tap it out and snug up the line very easily. I am glad I asked. Thanks again.