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Just want to say that I appreciated Raymond's and Bob's video on Brake Band Relining. Please don't think I'm piling on or duplicating what they've already done. The reason for this photographic "How To" is that I don't have YouTube access where I work and I don't have internet at home. So, thought there might be others who were not able to see the video, have dial-up service which makes it too slow to load, or just want to print these off for reference.
Regardless, I've contacted and gained permission from both Raymond and Bob to post this without any misunderstandings. More info is a good thing.
Lots of pictures and a few descriptions.
A materials list can be found on the Video page (Brake Band Relining viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66324).
Order materials and have everything ready:
Brake band removed from final drive. This one is nice and rusty:
Drill out old rivets with a 5/32" bit:
Once the back side of the rivet is drilled out, they get punched out with a nail set or punch:
So, you're left with a rusty brake band and old band material:
Good time to clean that rusty band. I used a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Came out looking good:
Use tape on your workbench to mark out the new banding material. Clamp one end and gently roll it out (might want to wear gloves) to the correct length. You can take the old banding material and roll it along to get the length. Believe the video had 11-7/8"; mine were about that or 12":
Material is easily cut with a hacksaw:
Then I used a anything I could find around the shop for a mold to shape the material:
Use some clamps (any will do) between the holes to snug the breaking material to the band:
Drill (5/32") holes through the back side of the band, using the band as your guide:
Next, set up the 3/8" forsner bit. I calculated that I needed about 0.097 from the bottom of the hole to the back side of the material using the old band material. Closest drill bit I had to that measurement was a 3/32" (0.09375), so used that as my distance guide:
Drilling out the countersink portions of the material I used a couple different ways. The first picture is just holding the material against the fence with a piece of masking tape with a mark to indicate the center of the drill bit. I could see the line on the tape through the hole in the material. This worked well:
The other way was similar. I mounted a second board as a front fence or guide to keep the material pressed against the back fence. The masking tape was on the fence having the line. This was okay too. Use a system that works for you. This way I had to "eyeball" it more than the first method:
Then, insert the rivets and set them with about four good hammer strokes:
Finished relined brake bands:
"More gold has been mined from the thoughts of men than has been taken from the earth." -- Napoleon Hill
When I had dial up I would stop at the Library when there was a video I wanted to look at. Just something you might not have thought of.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Great pictures Stanton. Hopefully others will be see that it's not that hard a task to do and decide to try it themselves.
Last edited by Bob McCarty on Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
Mike--that's exactly what I have to do now. I'm sure if someone wants to see a video bad enough, they'll find a way. Thanks.
Wonderful, I have printed a couple of the pictures for filing in my Cub notebooks. Thanks for the pictures, but one small problem I have noted: the wedding band on your finger belongs on a chain around your neck, tucked inside your shirt. I almost lost my ring finger in a machine shop about 45 years ago. Bee careful.
Last edited by thebigron on Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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