Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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11 posts • Page 1 of 1
As my login name implies, I haven't had a working starter on my '51 cub for many years but as I keep it in pretty good running condition it only takes a turn or two on the crank to start it up. However, every spring, after letting the tractor sit in the barn over the winter, approximately 5 months, I wind up buying a new battery to get it started again. In the past this has only been a $45.00 dollar inconvenience so I just paid the money and went on mowing. This year the battery price jumped up to $95.00! What is killing the battery over the winter?
A dead vbattery will freeze in the winter and possibly burst. It happened to me before. If you keep the charge up you should be good to go. I haven't lost a battery yet if I make sure it has a full charge before parking for the winter. I just checked prices yesterday at Sam's. $^5.00 for a group 1 6v.
Sea salt is healthier only because it gets stuck in the holes of the shaker and you can't actually put it on your food.
Barnyard Bash CubFest May 30th - May 31st, 2014
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The way to stop a battery from dying over the winter and maybe cracking ... is to invest in a Battery Maintainer. I have my Schumacher and I am going to get two more next time they come on sale
Schumacher SEM-1562A 1.5 Amp Speed Charge Maintainer
At $19.00 you can't beat that with a stick
I agree with Rudi, if you have power in the tractor shed, a tender is the way to go. If no power in the shed, remove the battery, and bring it to a place with power, and put the tender on it. I've gotten 5-6 years, from a 1 year warranty battery, using a tender. Ed
50 ,52,53,56,59 F Cubs, 55,55,57,63,63 fast hitch, 64 lo-boys, 71 154, 184 lo-boy,61 cadet original. IH spreader,IH corn grinder, Oli. OC3 ,AC D10 ,IH 444 , Potato digger, wagner ldr 3 power units.
Is your tractor keeping up the battery? You should get 4-5 years on a battery. I would check around for another vendor, I get all my batteries from a local shop with a private label. He knows 6v systems too. last one was an adjustment on a 5 year battery, new, about $65.00
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone but not forgotten!)
I know this is an older post, but I have a tender question: I have the same tender as listed above. Can I simply wire it to the terminals, or do I need to disconnect the battery prior to charging? The PO mentioned it wasn't good to charge with everything hooked up... although I don't see why not. With the ignition switched off what would happen?
BTW my 12v MG Midget has a 6/12v auto tender for years, and I could easily switch from one to another. The MG has plenty of cranking power even after winter. I watch the battery water level to make sure.
Welcome to the forum, vttrailboss. I see that you also are a worshipper of the great god MOWOG.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Here is a current thread on availability of that maintainer.
Sulfation is an enemy of lead acid batteries. Has anyone used one of these and, if so, what were the results?
That looks like a simple (cheap) battery maintainer, but it doesn't plug into 120v? Sounds like snake oil, or those TV antennas you plug into your outlet. If it's using the battery to desulfate itself, how does it not kill the battery?
I have a charger sold by home depot (I paid $49) that'll automatically charge at 2, 10 and 20 amps. It has a desulfate function, as well as a 60 boost for starting. I've brought old batteries back to life with it, but not 100%. It seems to work by 'shocking' the plates, and takes about 24 hours. Once done it reverts to a automated trickle charge. The caps have to be open to vent (better then designed for normal use). I wouldn't want it doing it's thing while the battery was mounted in a car/tractor.
BTW. It work well on my marine deep cycle batteries.
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
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