Farmall Cub

When I move the throttle I see the rod bend so I stop before I really bend the rod, but I can't get it to move freely. Where do I need to start and what is most common problems on the governors ???? The linkage from carb to gov moves though but not sure if thats a good thing or not.

The lever on the top of your governor, the one the linkage rod attaches to, is rusted at the pivot and seized up, a very common problem. Liberally lube it with a good penetrating oil, then start carefully working it. I say carefully, because the lever is not that hard to break. Once you get it freed up, it's a good idea to remove it, clean the lever & pivot pin and apply grease before reinstalling.

Would I be better off removing the whole governor to do this??? and is there any info about removal and installing the gov in the manuals ??? All I see in the owners about them is they say they are set @ the factory and should be adjusted by IH... I need a repair manual guide (like Chilton or Haynes) is IH-50 manual in the manuals section what I'm looking for ??? Do I realy need to remove the distributor also ? Can I tell if everything is in working order on it WITHOUT removing it ???

PS TY all for the help AND the manuals

You don't need to remove the governor or the distributor - in fact, it would be better if you didn't, so you don't have to worry about getting the governor back in correct time.

I do recommend taking the hood off (despite the additional work that can engender ). I don't remember if the alternator has to be moved. If it does, you won't have to remove it altogether, just loosen it up, slip the belt off, and swing it to the outside to get it out of the way.

You shouldn't really need a service manual for this task, but if you want to peruse one, it will be one of the one's under the "blue ribbon service manuals" link on the manual site.

To remove the hood, take off the air cleaner cap and the gas cap, loosen four bolts (7/16 - they do not have to come all the way out, just enought to slip the grill off) on the doglegs to remove the grille, remove one bolts (1/2) on either side of the radiator at the top of the side supports, remove the two screws at the top of each dogleg, and the four bolts (7/16 again) securing the gas tank to the top of the dash. I usually unclip the starter rod from the switch so I can slide it out of the way to remove the rightmost of the dash bolts so I don't inadvertently "bump" the starter over. It's easier to have two people, one on each end (or each side) of the hood to remove it, but if the gas tank is empty or nearly so, one person can handle it.

Once you have the hood off, you will see the lever (actually a bell-crank) that the speed control links to. There will be a spring attached to the other arm of the lever. Pull the cotter pin from the end of the speed control rod, and the cotter pin (I think it's held on by a cotter pin - it's been a while since I had to do this to mine) from the spindle holding the lever, then dose it with your favorite penetrating oil. Let it sit a bit, then tap gently on one end of the lever to try to get it to rotate around the spindle. If it doesn't rotate right away, dose it again, and let it sit a while. Repeat as necessary, until the lever starts to move (this may take a few days). Once it starts to move, you can start to persuade it to slide off the spindle. You should be able to get enough slack in the spring that you can slide it off without disconnecting the spring first. It is a very stiff little bugger!

Once you have the lever off the spindle, as the others suggested, clean off the spindle and the pivot hole in the lever (I think I was able to use a battery cable brush), slather the spindle with grease, reattach the spring (very important to do it now, as I said, she is the very devil to try to connect when the lever is already on the spindle, and slide the lever back on.

As they say in the British shop manuals, from here "reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Break a leg, and let us know how you get on.

Time and a lot of penetrating oil fixed mine some time ago and it has been free ever since. I did "work" it a bit and did some (very) light tapping right at the pivot. Didn't have to take off the hood.

been spraying P B Blaster on it for a week n still nothing, I'm thinking of removing the cotter pin n washer that hold it on the shaft n then with a piece of hardwood n hammer try knocking it like I'm removing it n if it moves I'm sure I can free it up from there but that same piece is broken on parts tractor or I'd have been a little more aggressive on it. But without a backup I'm scared to get wild on cast iron n snap the tall part where the throttle rod goes in it...

been spraying P B Blaster on it for a week n still nothing, I'm thinking of removing the cotter pin n washer that hold it on the shaft n then with a piece of hardwood n hammer try knocking it like I'm removing it n if it moves I'm sure I can free it up from there but that same piece is broken on parts tractor or I'd have been a little more aggressive on it. But without a backup I'm scared to get wild on cast iron n snap the tall part where the throttle rod goes in it...

Go easy at it, they do brake easy. Try moving it in the direction it rotates, tapping it side to side will probably brake it for sure.
After a weeks soaking and no movement I'd go ahead and remove the hood and come in from the top at it.

BD:

Here is the parts breakdown so you can see what needs to be done where.

BullDAWG wrote:All I see in the owners about them is they say they are set @ the factory and should be adjusted by IH... I need a repair manual guide (like Chilton or Haynes) is IH-50 manual in the manuals section what I'm looking for ???

As mentioned you do not need to remove the distributor or the governor, in fact if you don't have to don't .. that simple. In answer to your basic question, the Manual Server has all that you need on it. The GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors is the IH Service Technician's reference which has been compiled from the previous GSS series of Service Manuals that are also on the server. They sure beat the IH-50 which to my mind is very limited much like Chiltons or a Haynes that are more cursory than in depth. The BRSM's are the ones to use.

Take the hood off - much easier that way and you get good visual and physical access to the linkages. Pay attention to all the connection points .. lube those very well with PB Blaster or any good penetrating oil. Do not use WD-40 .. it isn't a penetrating oil at all. It took a long time to get that gunk in there, it will take time to get it out. You don't want to be banging on those cast parts with a hammer period Sometimes patience is the key.

Had same problem with my newly purchased 61 Cub. A couple of weeks of PB Blaster applications fixed it. Thanks to all the posters for the good advise.