Clutch Change

Sun Apr 10, 2005 4:27 pm

Hi:I'm new to this forum but been around cubs a while.I am building up courage to change my clutch assembly in my 1952 Cub.While I have some mechanical ability and my auto mechanic buddy is going to assist me,neither of us have ever changed tractor clutches before.Anyone have any hints and "look out fors" for us? EldonC

Sun Apr 10, 2005 4:36 pm

The main thing is that you have to split the tractor. Be very careful to properly and sufficiently support both halves. Other than that not much different than a car or PU clutch. You can't hold up cast iron with sky hooks.

Bill

Sun Apr 10, 2005 5:18 pm

The main look-out-for for reasonably experienced mechanics is the throwout bearing. It is a graphite block and no it doesn't turn.

Sun Apr 10, 2005 5:29 pm

Because the Cub is offset, it will fall to the left when you split the tractor. Wedge a wooden block between the front axle and the front bolster and secure it to the axle tube with hose clamps to prevent it from pivoting. GSS-1411 has a section on splitting and recoupling the Cub and another on clutch replacement.

Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:34 pm

Look at the ist picture in the three teen thread. what lurker carl is referring to is where the front axle makes to tractor. In this picture it is to the right. All direction is from sitting in the driver seat so that it is the left side. I don't know if I said it clearly but you can see all that weight on 1 side needs bracing.

Bill

Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:41 pm

I find it is easiest to use a wooden wedge on each side and drive them in fairly tightly. Then it doesn't require anything to hold them in place.

By all means, be careful. A Cub is pretty small, but heavy enough to hurt you if you're careless. Plan ahead!

Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:46 pm

George:

Could you by any chance take your awesome skills in playing with pics and paste in the wedges where they belong onto a suitable pic :?: :idea: :?:

Would be very useful. Pics are usually worth more than the normal 1,000 words. :D

Mon Apr 11, 2005 6:42 am

BEFORE you've blocked and split your cub :oops: ...make sure you have an adjustable brace for the back half of the front of the tractor :wink: . You'll find that lining the two halves back up correctly so the shaft slides in exactly is a major consideration to be addressed BEFORE you split the tractor. :wink:

Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:23 am

Rudi wrote:George:

Could you by any chance take your awesome skills in playing with pics and paste in the wedges where they belong onto a suitable pic :?: :idea: :?:

Would be very useful. Pics are usually worth more than the normal 1,000 words. :D


Rudi,

O K, here it is...
Image

What I don't recall ever seeing here is the advisability of also using the wedges when removing the rear wheels. It helps stability a LOT, especially when removing both wheels and the left one has to be very near the center of the tractor. Don't ask how I know,... I never really dropped one. :wink:

This is a Lo-Boy, but the F-Cubs are the same.
Last edited by George Willer on Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:08 pm

Your picture appears very clear and clean to me, not pixelated.

Steering rods

Mon Apr 11, 2005 3:13 pm

Thanks for the wedging tip,
How quickly I am learning from such good friends, 2 good things have arrived at home recently , No 1, 2 cubs and No 2, the Cub Forum and all it's helpful members, Thanks

George, your steering droplink to trackrods is different to ours, Interesting.
Patrick
Image

Mon Apr 11, 2005 3:22 pm

Pat:

George's Cub in the picture is a low-boy and hence the difference I think. Ellie my 48 and Granny my 47 both have the same tie-rod setup as yours does.

George:

Many thanks for the pic. I will as soon as I can get the Rudi-2 computer back up, will upload that and a bunch of other stuff to the server. THis is the computer that has ALL of the Cub Manual Server stuff on it.... :oops: :censored: :oops: :roll:

My AMD-K/2-500 on a Gigabyte GA-5X mainboard is no longer serviceable. Seems one of the capacitors on the mainboard no longer liked it's position in the universe and chose to try exiting through the case side of the computer housing. :shock: :shock: :? :o :shock: Now I have to rebuild. Older used mainboards are getting scarce as hen's teeth locally and when available cost almost as much as a new one :!: :roll: :?: :roll:

Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:19 am

Ah Loboy, unknown to me as I say always learning, thanks Rudi, hope you get the compulier working, Patrick

Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:52 am

Patbretagne wrote:Ah Loboy, unknown to me as I say always learning, thanks Rudi, hope you get the compulier working, Patrick


Patrick,

The Lo-Boy has a shorter wheel base so the steering geometry is a little different. The earlier Lo-Boys had the same steering geometry as the F-Cubs and skidded slightly in tight turns.