Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:01 am
The rockshaft rod I just got has about a 1/8" worn off each end where it goes into the rockshafts. Can I weld it up without softing the the shaft beyound use. If I can weld it up would a mig be too soft for filler or should I borrow a stick welder and what rod should I use
Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:21 pm
A question that I have been about to ask for a couple of days. Since being in touch with the Cub Family that is mainly US, I'm beginning to have a new vocabulary.
What is the Rockshaft, there are more than one I think;
If it's the cross shaft that lifts mowers etc with bell cranks under the steering rod, can we get new fibre bearings for them?
Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:51 pm
From looking at your pictures you have a manual lift on yours. I understand that you can adjust the preload on the spring to help you lift you load (implements). On mine there is a hydrolic unit (lift) that hooks to the rock shaft in the center of the tractor. From there there is a 5/8" steel bar (which is where my wear is) that runs back to the rear lift. Their is not a handle there on mine.
You have said you have restored some steam engines do you have any pictures
or a good web site with european steam engines. I am instrested in seeing the differences between what was made here and what was made out your way. This is a good one with a lot of pictures of our steam tractors http://www.roughandtumble.org/
and check out the photo album if you are instrested.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:52 pm
Patrick, here is a picture of the rear rockshaft: (picture courtesy of T.M. Tractor website)
The front rockshaft is as you describe.
Cowboy - you can weld up the worn area on the rod. I'm not a welder or a fabricator or machinist so I can't tell you what rod to use. But you could check into surface hardening to slow the wear.
I'm sure someone will offer more experienced advice if I'm way off base.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:57 pm
I wouldn't use too hard a rod. If something is going to wear, the rod is easier to repair than the hole in the shaft arm.
Patrick, so far as I know the bushings for the arm are no longer available, but there are lots of them availbale form the used parts places. The ones in the US were metal however, not fiber.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 1:05 pm
Thanks John & BigDog
John that is a good point about letting the rod take the wear. I'll just use the mig I don't have a stick welder and would have had to find someone to let me use theirs.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:17 pm
Looks good one more little job done. It appears the rockshaft bolts under the deluxe seat bracket and I will have shim up the other side to keep the seat level
Haven't been called yet but hopefully start work next week. So I am trying to get everthing tied up this week. Play time may be over for now
Oh well have to pay for all the toys I bought for the cub this year.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 3:57 pm
Hi yes I see it is quite a bit different, although the end result is the same
I'll look out for bearings, either metal or fibre.
Thanks, good luck with the work
Tue Apr 12, 2005 4:06 pm
Billy,Ah yes the days of steam in my life, I've rebuilt two of my own 10 to rollers, the first and best was a lovely Wallis and Steevens 10 ton roller which I bought as scrap and completely rebuilt, boiler and all, nef front tube plate tubes, stays etc, plus all the mechanics rebuilt, relagged, new tender, paint and on the road, Many many muscle killing miles at 4 mph if one is lucky. I even took my test, I have a licence to drive Steam on the road.
I'll look out a photo or two if I can, I've lost most of my photos some years ago due to a stupid mistake, one or two have survived
The other roller was Avelling and Porter single cylinder which I never really got very far with and when a young buck came and made me an offer as he wanted to learn how, I let it go.
I've helped on many other restoration projects with friends engines,doing the BigDog equivalent without the internet for the south of england steam world.
Thanks for reminding me, i'll sort some photos
Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:51 pm
My interest in steam was mainly from building engines... in smaller scale. One of the most ambitious projects was the main engine from a Buffalo Springfield 10 ton tandem roller. I built it 3/16 scale. It was mostly from castings made to my patterns and poured right there in my garage. Some aluminum, but mostly brass. The governor is a working Pickering ball ranger complete with a sawyers lever at 3/8 pipe size (model of a 2") It has a Marshall radial gear which is rare in this country... almost as rare as the Stevenson around tractors and equipment.
Do you see many cable plowing engines?
Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:59 pm
I think the MIG welder is probably as good a way to build up the rod as any. I would go slowly and not let it get too hot.
Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:25 pm
Patrick, check with http://www.jptractor.com
for the bushings. Be sure to tell them it is a handlift, and whether it's for the lift unit itself, or the front rockshaft.
I have used a manual lift for years, and it worked great for everything excpet the rear dirt scoop. Wasn't so hot an idea there. LOl
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