Farmall Cub

does anybody have a picture of how the brakes are mounted i have a scanned copy of a manual but it doesn't show a clear shot of how the brakes are mounted

My brackets are not original, rick Prentice made them, but I can get some pictures tomorrow for you.

Here are some photos from my photo archive, hope they help you out:

thanks the pictures helps alot on a standard cub where does the piece that has two pipes and a piece of plate steel between them go and does the fender mount back on the bull gear

Henry, the fenders will bolt to the final drive, but you will need spacers. The brake rod is extended with a special bracket in order to reach the clevis end from the brake band as you can see in my photos.

Do you have any other parts other than what is shown in your picture?

I do not have any pictures on file of the reducer on a standard cub, but John has one on a Cub with a rotovator and he will get back to you.

Something else I thought about---if you have a drawbar for your cub and want to use it with the reducer installed, you will need spacers for that also. Every component that bolts up to the final drive has to have spacers.

yes as far as i know i have all the brackets

On a standard cub the fender mounts on the final just as it did originally, no spacers needed for the standard cub. The pipes with a bracket welded to them are the spacers for mounting the drawbar. You need long bolts to go completely through them into the finals. I do not know which manuals you have, but copies of my manuals are here:
http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/Manuals/howard/

here are John's pictures of the unit on a standard cub:

http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/Ho ... 20Reducer/

Just finished uploading some new pictures to that link a few minutes ago.

am i doing this right here are some pictures

Looking good Henry. That twin spacer is referenced in line #9 here on John's instruction manual:

http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/Ma ... ge%202.jpg

It appears in your situation to be for a Cub with a fast hitch and helper spring, this spacer holds the helper spring bracket. I am assuming you do not have a fast hitch. Here is a pic of it on my loboy photos up near the top of the picture:

once the rain quits and dries out i'm gunna it out and play with it

It looks good to me. You can offset it a little to the right to cut out the right wheel track if you need to. Don't forget to put a cotter pin in the hole to keep it on the pto, and also, when you stop suddenly the shield on the pto tends to keep turning a little bit and if it is like mine, a lot of the balls are missing out of the races for the shield and it tends to make funny noise when it does. I didn't see any pictures of the rear of your tiller, but there should be a depth wheel there that is supposed to actually support the tiller and control the depth, combined with the setting of the leveling shield. I spent some time talking to the manager of Guy Machinery, which is a long time dealer/distributor for Mott, and he told me hose were only intended to till 2 or 3 inches deep, not 6 or 7 as many of us tend to do. I do not know if it was the weather or the fact that I took his advice, but when I prepared my seed bed I only tilled 2 to 3 inches deep as he said, and I had a much better garden than normal. I have also replaced my non original depth wheel with a wider pneumatic one (no pictures) to give better depth control in soft or uneven ground. Of course that means I have to remember to check the air in it every spring when I use it to prepare the seedbeds.

thanks again for all your help got a chance to play with it today