Spark Plug Connector Replacements

[Stanton]

Was reading Jim's thread on spark plug wire lengths (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73107) and didn't want to pile on there, so will start a new post.

I have been using TSC's copper core spark plug set when replacing wires on my tractor projects. They've really worked well and for the price ($9.99), you can hardly beat 'em. But the one drawback I've found are the connectors. They just don't hold up to much use. The ones furnished look like this:



The problem is this: When removing a spark plug wire from the socket, many times the connector stays in the socket. I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts (similar to NAPA or AutoZone) and asked if they sold any connectors that had better holding power. They sold me some that looked similar to this:



So far, the ones I've replaced have held on well to the wire when removing. Don't know if anyone else has run into this issue, but this seems to be a good solution.

[tst]

Yes those work good if you have the proper tool to crimp them, I buy the cable by the roll and make my own
Tim

[Boss Hog]

solder them on no more problems then

[Stanton]

Yes those work good if you have the proper tool to crimp them, I buy the cable by the roll and make my own
Tim

I don't have a crimping tool and they went on just fine for me with pliers.

[Gary Dotson]

I refuse to use the terminal supplied in cheap wire sets. A higher quality set should include terminals such as those shown by Stanton, but they will only work well when the proper crimping tool is used, (see the one shown in the other post). Over the years, I've made up a lot of wire sets and using good quality terminals is the only way to go.

[JackF]

I have a couple of gas working tractors with wire ignition cables that I have replaced over time. I‘ve learned to strip the ignition cable for enough for the wire to be exposed to solder the connector to it. (Like Boss said) Then I crimp the connectors over the ignition cables properly. Overtime when a tractor sets out in the weather interference wire connectors will oxidize where it meets the wire and cause a no start when it’s pouring rain and ect.

My Cub has the original wire set as it came from the factory in 1953 and It will stay like that as long it stays under cover and not used.

[TomE]

I have a TSC set with the connectors in Stanton first photo. The side ears on one broke during installation. Occasionally it works loose and causes problems. I have to stop and tighten it up. I went to some different part stores and no one had the connectors.

On soldering these: I am thinking that stripping some insulation, run the wire though the hole in the bottom of the connector, and then applying the solder to the base. Is this the way to go, or what is a better way?

I am also going to try to find some new connectors again.

[Rudi]

Tom:

I am also going to try to find some new connectors again.

'
NAPA should fill the bill. That is where I got mine.

[JackF]

TomE stated:
On soldering these: I am thinking that stripping some insulation, run the wire though the hole in the bottom of the connector, and then applying the solder to the base. Is this the way to go, or what is a better way?

That’s the way I do it with the male connectors. Female connectors I solder the wire on the upper part of the connector on the outside of the connector.