Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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i have a little history lesson in IH tractors in my garage. i paid $1800 and for that i got a plow blade with all of the brackets to mount on the front of the tractor, wheel weights front and back, tire chains, extra parts (cap, rotor, new wires, grommets, hose clamps, wheel bearing, ect), a sickle bar mower, rear PTO large belt drive (l shaped attachments that goes on the PTO). i will probably be selling the PTO belt drive and the sickle bar mower as i dont think i will use them. engine runs really well, no smoke, no leaks, hopefully she will last me a long, long time.
The Cub will last you a long time, just keep up with your regular maintenance and it will outlive any of the new compact tractors on the market ....
Congrats on acquiring your very 1st new to you Cub. Enjoy it. The owner's manuals etc., are on my server as well as the pdf's at the link above.
Depending on what you plan on doing, I would hold off on selling any of the implements/accessories - you may find that you are missing that which you already sold. You would be surprised at how many interesting things you can do with a Belt Pulley Attachment.
i really dont understand why people buy those subcompact things. at a cost of near $20,000 you get a japanese/chinese built piece of junk. for 1/10 of that cost you get a farmall tractor that was built to the highest standards, no plastic only cast iron and steel a true small farm tractor; and to that add a piece of farming history. im not into tractors that were built by labor "farmed" out to foreign countries, the old lady was built here 100% American grown tractor. personally i think a good running farmall is a much better value. i bought this tractor and drove it probably 10 miles, no problem. i didnt want to pay to have her trailed home, so i did the only thing i could think of a nice little drive on fairly quiet country roads. i stopped at the gas station and bought gas and drove her home. people were asking me questions about the tractor; actually coming up to me and commenting on how the liked it. a couple of people thought it was an A, i showed them the decal and that it was a cub.
so that brings me to maintenance of my new tractor. what should i do?
i checked the oil bath air cleaner and it has oil in it
going to grease all of the fittings
a couple drops of oil in the generator
change transaxle oil, same as cub cadet is it???? does it take hytran?
change oil in steering gear
change engine oil
temp gauge doesnt work; moisture in gauge. i suspect the gauge has failed, what do i use for a gauge, are they 6 volt specific?
this forum is a good place for all cub related as well as cub cadet, which i kind of like the this site serves both, as i own both. i dont plan of getting rid of the old cast iron cub cadet either, i wont touch anything MTD cub cadet but i sure do love my IH's. i say go IH or go home
McCormick-Deering Farmall Cub Owner's Manual 5-23-47
As I mentioned, it is worth reading the Owner's Manual. I gonna repeat that -- read the manual please, you will learn a lot. And no a Cub is not similar to a Cub Cadet. In older Cubs SAE90wt Gear Lube is used for the finals and transmission.
Cubs do not have temperature gauges as they are thermo-siphon systems. If it has a temp gauge it is a PO modification.
If the Touch Control was added, it requires Hy-Tran. Originally called out for SAE10wt but changed to Hy-Tran when Hy-Tran entered the product list.
it has hydraulic lift does that mean it has "touch control"?
if it has a temp gauge that does not work, what should i do with it? replace it with a working unit or should i unhook it or just dont worry about it at all??
since it is thermo-siphon does that mean that a temperature gauge wouldn't be actuate anyways? i know that thermo-siphon means no water pump, i take that as a good thing less parts to fail
you guys will have to excuse my ignorance, i have worked on cars, rebuilt kohler engines, ect but i have never owned an actual farm tractor.
Your temperature gauge most likely is the mechanical type, the gauge is connected to the sending unit with a very thin tube with fluid in it which expands pushing the needle higher as the coolant heats up.
A slimmer chance would be an electric gauge powered by the tractors electrical system with a sending unit connected by wire.
I installed a temp gauge on one of my cubs, simply a project for something to do. The engine coolant is the hottest at the water outlet between the head and upper radiator hose. I drilled and tapped the outlet to accept the 1/2 inch pipe threaded sending unit.
The gauge is very accurate, reading "cold" at idle or under light load, center of the green "run" area when mowing short grass, and at the upper green area one needle width from the red under full load mowing high grass uphill for extended periods of time. It's a novelty option, not a necessity option.
As you mentioned, the cub incorporates the thermo siphon method of cooling. No water pump, no thermostat, nothing to go wrong so nothing to troubleshoot with a dash mounted gauge. As long as it has coolant, the radiator is clean inside and out, and the fan is turning, overheating is not an issue.
The engineering department did their homework designing just enough radiator core area, coolant capacity, and fan size to make it virtually impossible to overheat the engine at any ambient air temperature and at continuous full load in relation to horsepower output.
For under $50.00 bucks you can be back in business with a new mechanical gauge with sending unit. It is a great tool to monitor the cleanliness of the radiator.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
The transaxle is the same as an IH cub cadet. When I first got my Cub I changed the fluid and used gear lube hoping it would quiet it down. It made no difference and have since changed to Hytran. It does a much better job separating the water from the fluid.
As Rudi suggested, check the Operator's Manual for a pictorial of the lubrication locations. A couple are not obvious.
Temperature gauge. I would disconnect - not use. Unless you want something to fill the hole in the dash. Actually, I think an oil pressure gauge mounted in the dash would be useful. You can see the top of the radiator when operating the tractor. Normal oil pressure gauge location is inconvenient for frequent observation.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Correct gauges for Cubs are available from TM Tractor Parts. The link is at the bottom of the forum pages.
Two 1953 Cubs, 1948 Cub, 22 mower, 10A disc, 144 cultivators, 189 plow, 54A blade, Johnny Bucket
1968 Cub Cadet 124, Cub Cadet 129 and Cub Cadet 782, mower decks, rototillers, front blades
On the cub with the temperature gauge, I also moved the oil pressure gauge up to the dash, a location you can easily see when seated on the operators platform. A couple of dabs of JB on the back holds it in place as there is no provision for dash mounting the stock gauge.
I chose to use plastic line for ease of installation however ran it through vacuum hose the entire way to protect it from chafing against the TC unit or speed control rod.
At the original gauge location I placed a short nipple and a tee, one port for the gauge and the other for a motor cycle stop light switch that triggers my hour meter once oil pressure is realized. (Magneto ignition). This set up is actually very accurate because if it was connected to an ignition circuit if this cub had one, leaving the ignition on without the engine running would cause the clock to run.
And from past episodes with other tractors, I would have rung up days and days of hours or until the battery went flat by forgetting to shut off the ignition switch after parking it by running it out of fuel.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
As a couple have mentioned, yes a Touch Control is IH's brand specific name for Hydraulics. This uses Hy-Tran or any MS1209 compliant or better Hydraulic Fluid. I use Perma-Tran in my hydraulics to mate with my Brother-in-laws Massey as the splitter interchanges. Yes you can also use Hy-Tran in the transmission, however because Cubs are normally kind noisy I continue to use the SAE90wt as it seems to lubricate better and the transmission is quieter with the thicker lube. Hy-Tran is much better as suspending water, but if you have good gaskets, Cub is barn/garage/shed kept water in the tranny should be a non-issue. Follow the lubrication guide in the Owner's Manual and swap out tranny fluid when specified or when you start seeing condensation buildup. 90wt does make a difference in my Cubs, can't speak for others. Some say it does, some say it don't - probably personal preference.
I used an oil gauge from and H or M - same as a Cub except it has the dash mounting hardware with it. Much easier to mount in the dash that way. I also used 5/16" brake line. Great mod and one where I can see the oil pressure at all times.
I really don't see the point in a temp gauge though. Much rather have a hydraulic pressure gauge than a temp gauge or hour meter.
I usually change all the fluids and repack the front wheel bearings.
I recommend you a get an operator's manual (parts and service are very handy). Lots of very useful information in there. Later manuals cover earlier Cubs (except the hard to find 1975 manual for the long stripe Cubs).
After about 1960 the recommended transmission and final oil is Hy Tran. Except for the needle bearing all the transmissions are the same. A gallon of Hy Tran will fill the transmission/differential and TC about perfectly.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/prev ... e%2007.jpg
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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