Farmall Cub

Guys:

Sorry to be always asking but ----

Jack was painted in the spring. He now has maybe 25 hours on him post-painting. Over the weekend he developed a dead-short and I had insufficient time to trouble shoot. I say it is a dead short because when one pulls out the ignition switch nothing reads on the ammeter [ no movement at all ]. Before painting this sometimes happenned when a battery terminal loosened. Engine , of course , won't fire and horn won't blow.

Because of the painting I checked to see if the ground connection from the battery was clear of paint -- it was . Fuse also is good ,if that matters. I would like to avoid taking off hood if I can . Any thoughts folks on where to check or what to do .

Obliged as always.

kajun

IMO, if the needle did not go to -minus all the way, I would call it an open circuit. Not a dead short.

Ok guys , "open circuit" . I need the quick fix or at least the quick find and thanks.

What year tractor? Solenoid for engine starting? Battery voltage? Does the battery crank over the engine?

Test the battery voltage across the terminals. Then when attempting to start engine. Perhaps dead battery.

Battery ok. Clean up the battery terminals and battery cable clamps.

Not the problem. Clean up the battery cable terminal on top of the starter.

More suggestions following response.

Thanks , Eugene:

1. 1960 Cub LoBoy --- reach rod starting , no solenoid.

2. 12 volt system -- installed just before paint job --- so 25 hours time on new system [ also new electronic ignition with the same 25 hours on it]

3. New battery -spins the engine like a banshee

4. Brand new ground cable but orig [ very old ]starter cable with new clamp on it [ I made{perhaps} wrong assumption that if spins like a banshee -- cable clamp would not be issue ]
Thanks for any additional guidance. I'll be out of pocket until tmrw .

Kajun

One of my Cubs has a bad push/pull switch. When it decides not to work it acts just like yours.

Denny Clayton wrote:One of my Cubs has a bad push/pull switch. When it decides not to work it acts just like yours.

I agree with Denny. Check for power at switch and then going through switch.

Ignition related problems as previously stated. Tractor wiring diagram and multimeter in hand, DC volts setting. Ignition switch on.

I would start checking for battery voltage at the terminal at the side of the distributor. Got voltage - problem is inside the distributor.

No voltage test again at each junction from the distributor side terminal working back, following the wiring diagram to the starter/battery cable junction/terminal. The problem will be the wire or appliance immediately down stream from the point where battery voltage was found.

Just my personal opinion on replacement electronic ignitions. My one and only experience with then. When they fault, you screwed, out the initial cost plus the cost of parts to return to original. I keep a set of Cub points and condenser on the shelf. The extra set of Cub points and condenser, about $10- at time of purchase, has been on the shelf for at least 5 years.

Turning the switch on will only show a current drain if the ignition points are closed, and circuit is good. You may have a loose wire, bad dropping resister, bad coil, or burned points.

Engine, of course won't fire and horn won't blow.

12 volt system -- installed just before paint job

Probably the same fault issue with both the horn and ignition.

I have the same thing as Denny - wiggle the on-off switch and the needle goes negative and she'll start. Probably in the switch connections behind the dash.....