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13 posts • Page 1 of 1
As many may know, Granny hasn't been running in a while - mostly cause of some dumb mistakes. Got all of that sorted out and tried to start her with the battery. Nope, ain't happenin at all. Very similar to Ellie. Gremlins I suppose. Anyways, after I got Ellie running Em, Bri and I tried to get Granny going with a pull start as well. Granny resisted a lot.. couldn't go too fast either -- 3rd wasn't an option - front wheel wobbled like crazy.
After a while, she started to pop a bit and finally she started to fire on her own. Was watching the oil pressure as we went through this. On initial start as was to be expected the oil pressure was just above the line - had done an oil change on her last fall. Didn't lose prime. So lack of pressure is not my concern. The whole time that we pulled her in gear the oil pressure rose to about where it normally is when she was running. When she started to fire on her own though, the needle pegged to the right and stayed there. This gauge worked normally when she last ran on her own. Do I have something to worry about or is it simply a gauge that has gone bad and needs to be replaced
All insights, commentaries, observations are welcome
First thing would be to put a known good guage on it and see if the present gauge is defective.
Shoot low Sherriff they are Riding Shadows
4 Wheels move the body.....
2 Wheels move the Soul .....
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Ralph in ky.
Gauge first thought, then stuck pressure regulator valve.
What is the oil pressure after engine is fully warmed up and at low idle?
I have an excuse. CRS.
Thanks guys for the replies, it is much appreciated.
Yup, that would work -- now I just gotta remember where Ellie's original is. Will try to find it tomorrow when I go down to the pole barn.
I haven't been able to get her to run on her own since. We pushed it back her back in the barn. Granny only ran for about 2 or 3 minutes then quit when Bri stopped the van.
Item nos 39-42 is the Pressure Regulator Valve - below the Magneto Mounting Boss right?
Undo the cap plug, remove spring and valve - clean ?
Correct location for pressure regulator valve. But I would solve the starting problem first.
Start by checking the compression. OK, then spark/ignition at engine cranking speed. Then carburetion.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Check the valve, #39, for cracks or wear.
I am not too concerned about the starting problem at the moment as Granny did start and run so that means pretty much everything else should be ok. We have confirmed that the timing is right, it has good fire, fuel (carb is clean and fuel is getting to the cylinders) and air. All that was confirmed as we wrassled with the no start issue. It was recommended that I pull start and I never had much faith in that until I saw how Ellie responded. After Ellie was sort of cleaned out she has run like a champ and starts first pull/first crank over. I am now convinced that pull starting can solve some issues that are just weird.
I am just concerned about the oil pressure gauge reading - that bothered me. I have to fix the wobbly wheel issue, get the final seal issue resolved before I pull start again. So I want to understand the possible/probable causes for the needle pegging.
Question would be (I just went down to the pole barn for another reason and had a look for the cap - found it) can I take the cap nut off without having to take one of the bolster bolts out? There doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance. I really don't want to start that stuff - cause we all know what happens when you take bolts out that you didn't plan on
I'd try the other gauge like Ralph suggested. Probably nothing wrong. Unless the engine is totally worn out, pressure may go that high with a cold engine.
I'm wondering why just recently "both" of your cubs had to be pulled started. I understand they have been setting a while but seems like something is up, gas, high moisture, oil residue, something out of the ordinary has become the ordinary. But when things are close to right, fire-fuel-compression, they should fire as you well know. With the great minds at work on here, I'm sure there is a solution to be had.
Guiena, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub.
In my experience, if a Cub doesn't start (and run) right away there is a problem. A Cub will RUN if very poorly timed or with ignition issues. But it won't run right. I suspect ignition or wiring problems.
I bet it's the right front wheel.... I considered it a crime to put the dust cap back on that hub, the bearings are junk. If you are lucky the spindle may still be good.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
Yeah, I know both front bearings are probably shot. Granny hasn't moved much since last you were here -- way too many issues to deal with both with her and my health. Now that I am feeling better it is time to fix those two so I can actually use Granny. I have my fingers crossed that the spindle hasn't been damaged. Will take pics as I take em apart. I haven't done a wheel bearing since we did the one on the trailer and the last one before that was in Kingston in 1975 :big give up Oh yeah, Granny hasn't really started since the fest in 09 - and again most of that was simply a lack of time due to a number of issues. She just kinda sat there.....
I am not sure why both have to be pull started. Probably because of the moisture issues -- this has been a very wet spring/summer. But haven't nailed down the reason.
Since both are magneto based systems, there is next to no wiring involved. I am getting good spark from both, timing is bang on (finally) for both and both have had recent oil changes.
I am perplexed by it all that is for sure.
13 posts • Page 1 of 1
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