Hand Controls for Clutch and Brake

[Tubby Creek Farm]

For Tubby Creek Farm:

Good advice from all but if you are determined to convert a cub then some more info would help.

Timeline?
Resources, i.e. welding, machining, metal working?
How do you plan to get on and off and where?I assume from the right side and into a cub seat with a backrest.
Budget? How much do you have to spend?

Sorry in the delay in replying. All this great cool weather has had us working even more.

As far as timeline I'm really hoping to have this up and running by spring

As far as welding, machine shop etc I do not have any equipment. However, I may get some assistance with welding, machine work and some $$$ through a state program. Threse guys have done accessible tractors before, just not a cub. Useually a tractor with hydro tranny.

You areright about accessing the cub from the right into a seat with a back rest.

[Tubby Creek Farm]

You need to be able to latch the clutch and brake controls up so that you don't need 3-4 hands to operate the tractor.

There are tractors with hand controls all over, with operators that do a lot more than operate a simple Cub on flat level ground using only their two arms. In fact there was a wheelchair accessible Farmall 450 at a local plow day last spring. I have some video footage of it in operation. Maybe I'll cut it out and put it up on youtube for you guys.

Right now, I am envisioning a pivot bar mounted above and ahead of the pedals. Three levers to the right of the steering wheel, clutch, brake, brake. Levers extend below pivot to reverse the direction of pull, and connect to pedals via bars. You can operate clutch with left hand and brakes with right, or all three with right hand. Pull a lever to activate a function. All three levers latch back.

To shift, pull clutch lever back with left, brakes with right. Latch clutch back, reach over and shift. Release clutch latch, ease the lever out while releasing brakes, and off you go.

If you have a video, that would be great.

[Landreo]

Sorry in the delay in replying. All this great cool weather has had us working even more.

As far as timeline I'm really hoping to have this up and running by spring

As far as welding, machine shop etc I do not have any equipment. However, I may get some assistance with welding, machine work and some $$$ through a state program. Threse guys have done accessible tractors before, just not a cub. Useually a tractor with hydro tranny.

You areright about accessing the cub from the right into a seat with a back rest.

If you have resources then I would go with those folks.

If I was going to build one, I would have one non-locking clutch-brake lever on the right. No need to lock the clutch and that will just burn the throw out bearing. The left brake shaft, 3/4 inch, is between the left pedal and the clutch pedal. Good place to mount a bushing and three levers. One under with a hole for a turnbuckle. Two on top, "U" shaped, one will go over the clutch about halfway up and the other will go over the brake pedal shaft about half way up. The "U" shape will allow the activation of the clutch or brake but not the otherway around. The pedals can be used as always without affecting the operation of the hand controls. To synchronize the brake-clutch action, put two bolts with lock washers in the crook of the "U" that is actually what would push on the clutch or brake. Adjust the bolts to get the proper clutch brake synchronization, That will change as the clutch and brakes wear so need some way to allow for that wear. The actual combined hand clutch brake lever can be mounted under the floor pan to come out between the fender and tire. Connects to the bushing and "U" levers with a rod and turnbuckle.


The hand lever can also mount by bolting to the bottom of the floor pan or a 3/16 thick plate can go under the floor pan and over the axle tube to mount there. Saves the floorpan cosmetics.

A separate parking brake latch would be needed as a lever on the left side by the gear shift.

Work the clutch-brake hand control with the right hand. If you need to stop for a while, pull the clutch brake to stop, put in neutral with left hand, pull the parking brake latch with the left hand, let go of the clutch-brake lever that was in the right hand to save the TO bearing.

If the plow lever or other implements would interfere with the right side hand lever, then that lever could be mounted on the steering column support post and extent to the right side of the steering wheel.

May also need to put a pin in the steering column support bushing, universal joint on the steering shaft, pull the pin, fold the steering wheel and shaft aside to get on and off the tractor.

The hand controls should be a one or two day project. Not really much to that part.

Getting on and off safely...you would be the expert on that part.


If your local folks can make hand controls then better to go with that, if not then let me know. Myself with the help of others should be able to whip out a set in a day or so.

[Hengy]

I'm loving the ingenuity of this thread!!

[Matt Kirsch]

My metal shop is currently full of combustible model airplanes, otherwise I would've had a prototype of my idea for you last weekend.

I already have some plates made up for bolting to the implement mounting pads. Just need the right size rod and a tube that's a slip fit, along with some square tube or rod for handles.

I am running to Pittsburg to pick up some fenders Friday, going to an auction with Dad Saturday... Might not get to it this weekend.

Man, I need a bigger barn so I wouldn't have to keep this stupid little trailer in the garage (my metal shop).

[Hengy]

Matt... wish I was going to be home on Friday, or I would have invited you for a coffee (or something stronger if you wanted). Unfortunately, I am in Wapakoneta, OH at my company HQ until Friday noon! Next time you are coming to Pittsburgh, please let me know!! (that is...IF you wanted to get together!)

[Landreo]

My metal shop is currently full of combustible model airplanes, otherwise I would've had a prototype of my idea for you last weekend.

I already have some plates made up for bolting to the implement mounting pads. Just need the right size rod and a tube that's a slip fit, along with some square tube or rod for handles.

I am running to Pittsburg to pick up some fenders Friday, going to an auction with Dad Saturday... Might not get to it this weekend.

Man, I need a bigger barn so I wouldn't have to keep this stupid little trailer in the garage (my metal shop).

Good news that someone has taken the challenge! Who knows if Tubby Creek Farm will use any of these ideas or not but it is still interesting and I would love to see photos of the prototype and final product.

[Tubby Creek Farm]

Hi All,

It does look like I am getting assistance through a state program for the actual building of the hand controls. The guy has done a lot of tractors but never a Cub. I have compiled the ideas here and will be sharing them with him.

You guys have been a GREAT resource! Once again!

I'll share any other info you may have too.

I'll keep ya'll posted

[phildidit]

I can't wait to see the finished product. It could be handy for more people than just you.

[Landreo]

Hi All,

It does look like I am getting assistance through a state program for the actual building of the hand controls. The guy has done a lot of tractors but never a Cub. I have compiled the ideas here and will be sharing them with him.

You guys have been a GREAT resource! Once again!

I'll share any other info you may have too.

I'll keep ya'll posted

I spent a few hours over the weekend working on a prototype. Some things worked well, some not. But overall I think it is best to go with a design from folks that have done this before.Photos of the final design and how well it works would be appreciated. Good luck!

[clodhopper]

I have been reading back over this post. I still say a hydrostat would work best. I have been looking at my Cub Cadet 1650 today. I honestly don't think it would be that hard to adapt the 1650 hydrostatic system to the cub . I know the rear end differential system is the same and I think only the input shaft would have to be adapted. if that was the case I don't think there would be a need for a manual transmission at all. then the only challenge would be a control linkage. this would also make it feasible for either a handicapped or non handicap person. it would also allow user to keep the cub tractor instead of buying a whole new tractor and implement set.

[Eugene]

I still say a hydrostat would work best. I honestly don't think it would be that hard to adapt the 1650 hydrostatic system to the cub.

The Cub engine operates at about 1/2 the rpms of a Cub Cadet. But I agree a hydrostatic tractor would be the way to go.

[tst]

Another thought for hand controls, Ihave set up a couple of 3 wheel trikes for bikers missing legs, the clutch i used on one type with a mechanical clutch a motorcycle handlebar turned on end with a clutch cable, another was a hydralic unit so it had a master cylinder and a slave cylinder to move the clutch and the brakes can be worked with a cable also, so think about about motorcycle hand controls
Tim

[clodhopper]

I still say a hydrostat would work best. I honestly don't think it would be that hard to adapt the 1650 hydrostatic system to the cub.

The Cub engine operates at about 1/2 the rpms of a Cub Cadet. But I agree a hydrostatic tractor would be the way to go.

Didn't even think about that.... but your right, cub engine is 1800 max, cadet is 3600 max.

[JackF]

It looks like you have this under control. I’m very sorry for not seeing this post when it started. Because of the trade I was in before retirement I was a volunteer for putting hand controls on cars, trucks and tractors for injuries from farm accidents and mostly military injuries. The people that really did a good job for designing agriculture disability controls I thought were Life Essentials. http://www.lifeessentialsweb.com

Sir; after reviewing your web site you and your wife are very special people.