Help With Plowshare Repair

[Bill E Bob]

I have given up on finding a good O746 plowshare for my F194 plow I expect it to see minimal use in the future, but would like to improve the point on the share. I have noted on the forum, that leaf spring sections can be welded onto worn shares to improve performance. Does anyone have a picture showing a leaf spring section added to a point Would certainly appreciate it.

[ScottyD'sdad]

I've repaired some. Due to computer illiteracy, I don't have pictures. I ground a flat end, onto the share, and welded the appropriate length of leaf spring, to bring it out to the proper length. (a guess). Welded another short piece, overlapping the joint. Ground it to shape, adding weld, to fill in, as needed. Best I can do, without camera and computer skills. Ed

[Bus Driver]

Are those original shares cast? Iron or steel? In the old days, white cast iron or chilled iron was often the norm and it is one of the most difficult to weld successfully. One of my many (unrealized) dreams is to find an absolutely new plow share for the Cub as a model and then use one of today's steel shares as a base to weld onto and cut as necessary to create a usable substitute. Today's steel would probably wear longer than would the cast'
As many know, farmers in general are doing much less plowing with moldboard plows than was the norm 30 or 40 years ago. Large used plows sell at low prices in my area.
In the 1950s, I recall some vocational agriculture students ( I was never in that program) welding up worn plow shares or welding in new sections. Many of them were cast and the results were of limited success.
I once attempted to build up a worn plow moldboard with welding. It was steel, not cast. Warped it to the point of it being ruined. Weld material is molten when deposited and it shrinks as it cools- gets smaller. The effect is dramatic with significant weld thickness.

Last edited by Bus Driver on Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[ScottyD'sdad]

The share must be steel, as it welds fine.Ed

[Matt Kirsch]

There wasn't a whole lot of science or precision involved in the leaf spring repair. Plow parts have always been expensive, and farms always had an old truck sitting in the weeds.

It was just a matter of cutting off a chunk of leaf spring that "looks about right" and welding it to the plow point. The ones I've seen just point straight forward and are welded overlapped on to the old plow point.

[v w]

I have made a post before on the welding of a leaf spring, or other suitable material, to a point. Like Matt all dad ever did was to have a peice of spring welded to the underside of the point. Since this is running flat on the bottom of the furrow the length is not critical. When the billfold was thin I have seen a second repair but the rest of the point is beginning to wear and you make a small furrow in the bottom of the furrow. Point any slight curvature of the spring down. Points were probably steel. Too many rocks for cast. Vern