Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Is there a trick to removing the PTO bearing in the rear plate? Does the oil seal need to be destroyed, or can the bearing be removed towards the front of the tractor instead of the rear?
As long as I'm asking, are there any replacement hints for putting the new bearing in, and is it a common bearing that I can pick up in town at the local bearing and drive shop?
Your bearing may be staked on if it is on an early cub, otherwise it is held on with a snap ring, here are some instructions:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... 06A-07.jpg
The IH part number is ST225B. Or take the original bearing to NAPA and they will cross the reference numbers stamped on it.
Thanks CubGuy. The manual isn't much help to know if I need to have the bearing pressed on and off, or if I can get it off without a press. The manual states to remove the oil seal, but I'm not sure I can do that without ruining the seal. This tractor is a 1948.
The seal likely needs replaced anyway.
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Todd, yes you can press it inward and remove it without damaging the oil seal but like Don mentioned, while you are at it, I would replace that seal also.
Since you have a 1948 model, I would bet your PTO bearing is staked onto the PTO shaft---which means no snap ring.
One other note, don't confuse the grease shield snap ring with the bearing retainer snap ring (or staked on in your case possibly).
If you do not have a hydraulic press to remove and install parts, take it to a local machine shop or NAPA store and they should be able to do it for you.
When I pulled on the mower pulley the entire PTO shaft came out to my surprise. So, I had to drain the transmission to retrieve the clutch and set screw. The bearing and oil seal seem to be stuck in the back cover.
There is a slight amount of wear on both sides of the shifter pin. Would you go ahead and replace it also?
Should the pilot bushing look brass color? I don't see any brass in the inner shaft.
Is there a groove on the shaft for a snap ring? If not, your bearing is to be staked on when reinstalled. That bearing can be pressed out, remove the oil seal first.
Replace it. Contact TM or if you want any good used ones, I have several in stock
Bronze or brass in color, if there is no bushing in the end of the drive shaft, install a new one.
That bearing is a pretty common one, SKF 6205-J would be a good replacement. It may be worthwhile to consider a sealed bearing too, 6205-2rs. More drag (from the seals) but you can eliminate greasing it (or OVER greasing it, makes a mess of the differential case). The seal would be less critical then, but should still be replaced. Don't get a 'cheap' bearing!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
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