Re: The build begins
Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:24 pm
I completely understand wth keeping the numbers matching, it is important to me as well. If the machine shop knows what they are doing, they can mend the crack, but you are really going have to keep that in mind with future tractor work, even with the braces.
I'd say drop it off at the shop and see what they say. Have a look through the manuals in this link....
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... index.html
...with special attention to the Engine and Specifications links. Might want to print the pages out to drop off at the shop, especially if they are unfamiliar with C-60 engines.
I'd say drop it off at the shop and see what they say. Have a look through the manuals in this link....
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... index.html
...with special attention to the Engine and Specifications links. Might want to print the pages out to drop off at the shop, especially if they are unfamiliar with C-60 engines.
Re: The build begins
Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:35 am
You will never get your money out of the effort to keep the numbers matching.
Most people purchasing a cub would prefer a good block (no welds) over a matching number.
The guts of this engine has already been overhauled at least once and the valve seats are in horrible condition. I don't know if you'll ever have a good running, reliable, hard-working tractor. It will probably always need to be babied due to the cracked ear.
Short blocks are readily available. Drop-in complete engines are also available. Better check out the rest of the tractor to see what that will need before dumping a big pile of money into the engine just to find out it also needs additional work in the transmission.
Most people purchasing a cub would prefer a good block (no welds) over a matching number.
The guts of this engine has already been overhauled at least once and the valve seats are in horrible condition. I don't know if you'll ever have a good running, reliable, hard-working tractor. It will probably always need to be babied due to the cracked ear.
Short blocks are readily available. Drop-in complete engines are also available. Better check out the rest of the tractor to see what that will need before dumping a big pile of money into the engine just to find out it also needs additional work in the transmission.
Re: The build begins
Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:39 am
outdoors4evr wrote:It will probably always need to be babied due to the cracked ear.
I have to disagree. Berlin just finished up with a demonstration of how to install his braces properly so I will now be doing Ellie as soon as I get over this cold I picked up on the weekend.
Wes wrote:it would mean more to me that way (anyone understand/agree?)
Yeah, I understand that and I imagine many of us do.
I noticed that Ellie had a crack -- yup -- at the ear a couple years ago. After really close inspection it is quite apparent from the discolouration of the metal that it has been there for a very long time. Ellie is never babied. Operated within a safe operating envelope to be sure, but there have been
moments when she has been stressed. I am going to have no worries about that block at all after the braces are installed, cause I have almost no worries about it presently. Do I pay attention? Yes I do ... but she has served me well over the dozen years almost that I have owned her and there has been a number of times that in my newbie status I did stuff outside the envelope. She survived nicely. If you can have it properly brazed by someone who knows his metals, it will be fine. I would be inclined - strongly inclined to get Berlin's braces and install them as you put your Cub back together. And yes should you ever sell it - most definitely be open and honest about the crack and the fix.
A new block with the proper casting codes would be the best answer though if it can be sourced. If not -- then fix it if that is your preference, after all, it is your Cub
Re: The build begins
Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:42 am
Wes wrote: I would really like to have this tractor all original 1952 from front to rear, it would mean more to me that way (anyone understand/agree?) I feel like I have started this project and want to finish. If the build works out it is a personal project for me to keep and mow my place with, not a build to sell.
I agree with all these reasons. Having a tractor that you brought back to life with your own labor, and on which you kept everything you could instead of just throwing new parts at it is a great accomplishment.
Outdoors4ever is correct, that you will not get your money out of it. However, that does not appear to be a concern to you. Given Rudi's experience with Ellie, and your comment that the crack did not leak, I see no reason not to use the block if the machine shop can address the valve seats. Considering the fact that if you buy a replacement block, you're still going to need rings, bearings and pistons, so that's not going to save you money.
I say go with what you've got if you can.
Re: The build begins
Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:25 pm
It is good to read opinions from both sides. Thank y'all for taking the time to do so.
I will be dropping the block off in the next few days to have it evaluated, I will try and make the decision from there. I will post what their opiniois are on the condition of the block (valve seat replaceability and the crack repairability) Hopfully the block will still be a viable option and the Engine Braces will be in soon.
I will be dropping the block off in the next few days to have it evaluated, I will try and make the decision from there. I will post what their opiniois are on the condition of the block (valve seat replaceability and the crack repairability) Hopfully the block will still be a viable option and the Engine Braces will be in soon.