Farmall Cub

Hello,all! So, first I want to say thanks for this great community, I am looking forward to learning and contributing in the future.I just purchased my first tractor a few weeks ago"1949, molly" and am just now changing the engine oil and tranny. The most recent history of this tractor is that is has been sitting in a barn for 5 years basically unused waiting for a restoration until the owner heard I was looking for one and agreed to sell. My "first" 2 questions are this.
1 The PO put a used battery he had sitting around on it to replace the absolutely dead one on the tractor and it worked OK the day I was there but when I came by a few weeks later to pick it up, no go. She started fine with the crank though so we used it to load and unload the tractor no problem. After charging the battery at home and checking volts to see that it was a 12 volt I called him to ask when it was converted from 6 volt and he said it wasn't. Oops... he grabbed the wrong battery. It was a small 12 volt in his defense. Other than 2 blown headlights, should I look for any other damage?
2. I drained the transmission and put 3.5 pints kerosene in with the intent to run for a few minutes and went to hand crank"remember, no battery" and no joy on the start. I did a small amount of choke and set the throttle a little above idle. There was a lot of fuel dripping out under the Carb so I removed the bottom drain and the brass side plug and that stopped it." Flushed it out?" Most importantly, when I unhooked the pipe going up to the breather, about 1/2 cub of gas came out. Am I right in thinking I just flooded her? Also, if I can't get her started today, should I drain off that kerosene from the trans or can it stay in?
I'm sure to come up with more questions and would like to post a few pictures when she's up and running.
Thanks.....

To answer the easy question - you can leave the kerosene in the transmission/differential until you get the tractor running. Then drive around for 5 to 10 minutes, drain and replace with gear lub or Hy-tran.

Since the tractor was running, I believe you have several problem areas.
1) I would pick up a 6 volt battery.
2) Check the ignition system. Due a complete tune up, probably due any way.
3) Clean the fuel system including the carburetor, gas tank, line and sediment bowl.
4) Lastly, the electrical - charging system.

Dead battery = no start hand cranking unless it has a mag instead of a distributor.

Eugene wrote:To answer the easy question - you can leave the kerosene in the transmission/differential until you get the tractor running. Then drive around for 5 to 10 minutes, drain and replace with gear lub or Hy-tran.

Eugene, you recommend gear lube or Hy-tran for the tranny. There is a big difference in the properties of gear lube and Hy-tran. Maybe Hy-tran would work, after all it is tranny fluid, but myself I'd feel better using 90w gear lube. Am I all wet thinking that Hy-tran wouldn't be the best bet? I think I'm due for a teachable moment.

Molly, welcome aboard!! You are now a member of the best Cub website on the planet. The guys here are the best most knowledgeable Cub experts you will find. And then, there's me.

Not that it makes any difference but the IH fluid I buy is 80-90 weight.

Todd

Hy-tran does seem a little thin but some folks like it a lot.
I use 50/50 Lucus and 90 weight.

BTW, welcome to the Farmall Cub Forum.

mollywobbles, be aware that if your tractor REALLY is still a 6 volt, it is most likely a POSITIVE ground...the 12 volts are negative ground.

Also, if you haven't been to a Cubfest, you should consider going to one...a great place to meet other cub folks and get help with your own tasks. There is one about 2.5 hours from you at Boss Hogg's VA Cubfest (usually in April) I think you would enjoy it, and you can get a lot of help with problems you might still have. Welcome to the Forum and good luck!

Excuse the ignorance but how can I tell if my tractor has a magnito or a distributor?

Also, I am picking up a new battery today, my friend is a dealer for intrastate batteries. Anyone have an opinion on that brand??

If you can start it without a battery hooked up it is a mag. If a distributer it requires a battery. Also, a distributer has a visible coil attached somewhere. The mag has a hump right behind the distributer cap that contains an inside coil, but some owners have also attached and outside coil with a mag, but a distributer has no place for an inside coil, if any of that makes any sense. Welcome to the forum.

Molly, you only about 40 minutes or so it seems from me, if I can be of any help let me know. I visit zions crossroads frequently for shopping and such. Welcome to the forum, there are tons of great people here and more information than a man can stand.

You'll get different opinions on batteries (or most anything else for that matter) but I also have a friend who sells Interstate batteries. I've used them in a lot of stuff and have had no issues with them. Pretty much all I've bought have been 12 volt, though, I can't comment on their 6 volt batteries.

Your 49 should have a magneto, if it has not been changed over. The mag will have an internal coil and only a ground wire from the ignition switch. The battery ignition will have an external coil with 2 wires attached to it. When you crank, by hand, do you hear a "snap" sound every half revolution of the crank? If so, that's the impulse mechanism in the mag operating.

The next time you attempt a start, making sure you are getting oil pressure within 20 to 30 seconds. If not, shut it down and prime the oil pump. Remove the oil filter cap and filter. You will find a small hole in the upper right portion of the filter housing. Pour about a cup of oil in that hole. Turn the engine over and you should get oil spurting back out that hole. If not, add some more and try again. Replace the filter and cap when you get circulation. Running without oil circulation will produce disastrous results.

Attached are pictures of both systems. Both magneto and battery ignition systems have a distributor.

The difference is the magneto generates its own electricity to produce spark and has its coil incorporated on the magneto unit.

The battery ignition system requires an auxiliary power source to generate a spark. This system resembles the automotive style distributor and remotely mounted coil.

No battery power is connected to magneto fired tractors, the wire you see connected to the side of the magneto is a wire that is grounded to kill the spark, not power it up.

Photos courtesy of TM Tractor Parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/

Magneto:


Distributor:

I purchased an Interstate 6v battery from a farm & home store. Seems to work just fine.

Welcome to the forum!