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Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 4:48 pm

Hi All,
I have a slight oil sweat/leak all along where the oil pan is bolted to the block. Questions!! (1) Is it a fairly simple job to take off the pan and put on a new seal? (2) What kind of seal is it?. (3) Could I make one myself? I intend to change all fluids in my 48 Cub, I have already done the anti freeze in the radiator, and intend to move on to change oil & oil filter, which I got sent from England Cost 15 Euro (the filter) which included postage. I intend to put in 10 - 40 multigrade engine oil. Can anyone help out with info or a step by step guide would be much appreciated. Always read your forum, great info and sometimes great fun.
Thanks,
Donegal Cub.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:09 pm

If you have cleaned the Cub well, then proceed with repairing the oil leak. The part that you MIGHT need is the oil pan gasket.
Are you in Ireland? One of the lands of my ancestors.
Recently I decided to deal with a persistent leak of some years duration in a final drive in a non-IH tractor that I have. I had guessed that the problem was an axle shaft seal-- more than a one man job on that tractor. But since cleaning it was the necessary preliminary step and I preferred not to pay others to do it, I started the cleaning. What a mess! After getting most of it off and running out of cleaning solution, I decided to be sure that the lube fill was proper. So started adding lube and a trickle of fresh lube appeared. The stud that holds the sway chain on that side was loose. It's tapped hole goes into the lube chamber of the drive. Tightened the stud and the leak is gone.
So clean it first.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:15 pm

I have a slight oil sweat/leak all along where the oil pan is bolted to the block.
Try snugging up the pan bolts. My working Cub has a seep along the oil pan gasket. Far as I'm concerned, for my Cub it is nothing to worry about.
(1) Is it a fairly simple job to take off the pan and put on a new seal?
Simple task. You will need a small socket, extension and perhaps a swivel, to reach the bolts at the back of the pan.
(2) What kind of seal is it?
Cork. If you don't want a seep and are not particular you could use RTV sealant.
(3) Could I make one myself?
The seal is a single piece of material and pretty good size. Short answer is you could, but probably not.
I intend to put in 10 - 40 multigrade engine oil.
Grade and brand of oil is up to the Cub owner.
Can anyone help out with info or a step by step guide would be much appreciated.
If you are talking about the oil pan gasket replacement - no explanation needed.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:47 pm

To supplement Eugene's comment on a step by step for the oil pan replacement, he is mostly correct. However, what is not immediatley obvious, is that the bolts holding the rear of the oil pan are behind a small plate bolted to the front of the bell housing - Part #3 in the picture below.
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Getting these three bolts out and replacing them is where you will need the swivel Eugene mentioned, because it is not a straight shot to reach them.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:49 pm

McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 5-1-49

Lubrication starts on Page 14

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Maintenance begins on Page 21

Stock# EN325 crankcase oil pan gasket

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TM Tractor Parts

Tom and Lynn regularly ship across the pond. Great folks to deal with.

Also, you might consider using TM Tractor as his prices are rather cheaper than across the pond. Decide what you need, order a number of pieces at a time and save a lot on the part and shipping. I am reasonably close to a CaseIH dealer but it is faster and cheaper for me to buy a lot of my needs from Tom and Lynn.

Example: Stock# EN114 oil filter kit

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Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 6:31 pm

Hi All,
Many thanks for all your help and suggestions. I will first try Eugene's tip first and see if I can get a quarter turn on the bolts. I would not like to snug them too much. As I have never worked on a cub before, here is another question. (1) When I am changing the oil filter do I drain it from the plug on the side at the end of the slender pipe, and is there anything to look out for when replacing the filter? (2) Is it just a simple matter of draining off the old oil and putting in the new filter and filling the filter casing with new oil?. Oh yeah as you may have gathered by now I am a greenhorn cub mechanic.
Donegal Cub.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 6:52 pm

Have a look at the image below:

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Sitting down with a large cup of tea .. maybe coffee (I used to be a tea granny, but now am addicted to the java :lol: ) and reading the Owner's Manual will go a long way to taking you from being a greenhorn to a good maintainer of your Cub. Knowledge is always the most important aspect and armed with the proper information, maintaining our Cubs is a very easy task. Take it from me -- a greenhorn by definition when I first got Ellie-Mae.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 6:54 pm

Be sure to look at the open hole in the torque tube, any leak from the back of the engine (and possibly the tranny or even water) will run out that hole and drip about where you say. I prefer to do things the right way, but something that should be a minor operation can turn into something big. So it may be worthwhile to wipe it down, clean it up and see how bad it really is and get a good idea of where it's coming from. If it's slight (after running a bit) it may be best to just leave it alone for the time being.... Rear main seal is not an easy or cheap job. You can pretty safely take the plate in the parts page above and leave it off while you are investigating.

If you are going to get a shipment from TM it may be best to get a shopping list and do it all at once. May want to consider things like final drive pan gaskets, TC manifold gasket (and O rings) check the pto and what not.

The transmission, Touch Control (hydraulic block), final drives, steering gearbox are worth changing the lube in. Later manuals say HyTran in all but the steering gearbox, any good quality 'tractor fluid' should be fine. Motor oil in air cleaner cup, if you are energetic it's a good idea to flush the assembly and clean the vent tube (pretty much impossible with the hood on).

I would also recommend repacking the front wheel bearings, it's well described in the operators manual. Not all that bad.

On the oil filter housing, yes.... drain the pipe first. Take a look inside after you get the filter out and if there is any crud at all, put the long bolt back in (keeps the crud out of the engine) and flush with kero or diesel, drain through that pipe.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:07 pm

Hi All,
Many many thanks for all your help and tips. I can now go forward tomorrow with confidence that I know what I am doing. You guys are just the best!!!.
Donegal Cub.

Re: Maintainence

Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:05 pm

Buzzard Wing wrote:On the oil filter housing, yes.... drain the pipe first. Take a look inside after you get the filter out and if there is any crud at all, put the long bolt back in (keeps the crud out of the engine) and flush with kero or diesel, drain through that pipe.
The drain pipe may be plugged. No problem just lift the oil filter, most of the oil will have drained into the oil pan. You can take a long screwdriver to clean out the drain on the oil filter housing.

Re: Maintainence

Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:21 pm

Donegal Cub wrote:(2) Is it just a simple matter of draining off the old oil and putting in the new filter and filling the filter casing with new oil?. Oh yeah as you may have gathered by now I am a greenhorn cub mechanic.


You do not need to re-fill the oil filter housing after changing the filter. If you are going to change the filter, you should also drain the oil from the oil pan at the same time. Then just add the new oil through the filler neck.

Re: Maintainence

Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:48 pm

Eugene wrote:........The drain pipe may be plugged. No problem just lift the oil filter, most of the oil will have drained into the oil pan. You can take a long screwdriver to clean out the drain on the oil filter housing.
It is not unusual to find the oil filter drain pipe plugged, because many people do not realize it is there. On the first cub I bought, over 25 years ago the oil pan drain was also plugged. Needless to say, that one needed a lot of work to make a good tractor out of it. I still have it and did the second complete refurbish on it about 2 years ago.

Re: Maintainence

Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:16 am

Yep, I had one that was plugged solid once.... I took it out (only a piece of pipe) and cleaned it. That tractor no longer exists as a tractor. The 'new' Cub had an interesting find in there. I have found the copper gasket for the long bolt before, but this one had the original drain pipe cap in the housing!?? Guess they forgot where they put it :roll:

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