Farmall Cub Forum
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10 posts • Page 1 of 1
Took apart the 1975 cub steering box cause it had some side to side movement in the front pitman arm and also has some free play in the steering wheel from 12 to 2. I got the upper and lower bushings from case/IH as well as the thrust washer. I would like to know what needs replacing or more so how to check or tell which parts it is before I slap all new stuff in there. It will help me diagnose steering problems in the future, plus the bushings in there don't look all that bad to me.
Why have y'all experienced. Boss, I'm sure you've got some good tips. I remember you said the lower bushing was to blame for the side to side movement but it looks good to me. Pictures of The original bushings will be posted in a few minutes.
Put the shaft in the old bushing and shake it do the same with the new you will most likely see the difference, unless the shaft is worn, the washer is worn out
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I put the short section of the shaft up in the upper bushing and had some play where the new one is tight on the shaft. The lower bushing is tight on the shaft. I inserted the long section shaft through the top of the housing down and it was tight once fully down. Very little movement when the shaft was about 1/4 to 1/2 way down going in the bushing. Looks like I need to replace the upper bushing but I'm not so sure on the lower one.
To make sure I'm checking it right and to let you all see what play I have, I will be happy to take a short video of it and send it via email. Just let me know if I should do that.
Chase, if that top one is causing all the movement the bottom has to be worn a bit also. It's larger and won't show as much play as that top one does. I know they're way over priced but I'd go ahead and do both of them, that way there'll be no problems with the lower seal leaking later on.
On my last rebuild I placed the upper steering shaft in alone to make sure it turned to please me once the seal retainer was tighten then I removed it and installed the lower unit first. Install the short shaft and pitman arm complete while out of the tractor to adjust the castle nut as needed while turning the arm to find out what feels the best. You'll notice the when you place the locking bolt through the pitman arm and tighten it up the unit will become tighter and the castle nut may need backed off a little bit.
Be sure to use that gasket on the top steering shaft seal retainer. It works as a shim of sorts and is the most important gasket on the tractor.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
Just wanted to say "THANK YOU" to Boss and Yogie for the tips and advice on getting my first Cub steering sector rebuilt. It really wasn't all that hard, I just had to gain the expierence to actually see how it all worked and what to look for. Although visually the bushings looked to be good, apparently there was some wear in them because before taking it all apart the pitman arm would move side to side by hand and after replacing the upper and lower bushings, along with the thrust washer and oil seal, it tightened it up snugly. I also had some play at the steering wheel from 12 to 2 oclock. After getting it all back together, It tightened it up to 12 to 1 oclock. I thought the free play in the wheel would be completely gone, but I guess not. Other than bolting the housing back on the tractor, it was a pretty easy job. I'll post pictures in a little bit.
THANK YOU GUYS!!
ya hads 2 o the best helpin ya out
get er done; life is good
Here is the picture just before bolting it back on the tractor....
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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