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Don't over think this one. Use Rotella 15-40 and never look back.
47 Cub (Glenda)
52 Super A
62 Cub (Genie)
In all things know which way the wind is blowing.
Changing Oil and FIlters: There might be a better forum topic to put this under, but since we are talking about oil and filters and lubrication, I figured I would drop this here. I am still scooping up stuff I took down from youtube awhile back and just put back up, so please bare with any ramblings in the videos. One error in the audio was that the paint was applied to top of the oil filter cover during restoration in 1998 so it was on there a lot longer than that.
The remarks about changing oil between summer and winter brought back memories of my first experience with 10W30 back in the late 60's. On the farm we always used ASE30 in the summer and ASE10 in the winter. When 10W30 first came out my dad and I would laugh as we watched the liquid flow from the can in stages. First a stream of very fluid oil then a stream of very stiff oil followed by a stream of very fluid oil, and so on until the can was empty. It always seamed we changed the oil when it was to cold to do anything else. Usually -20 F or so. I always had a problem understanding how the stuff worked. Thanks for the info and the memories.
I have use synthedic oil only in a few of my engines. I used it on my 1950 demo cub after I rebuilt the engine some 10 years ago. I first ran the engine long enough to seat in the rings with penz oil straight HD 30. Then I used royal purple 20-50.. I havent change the oil since but it only gets a few hours of running time per year. I can go out at - 10, the demo will fire right up. I also have a IH model 3200 skid steer with a wisconsin VH-4D engine. I totally rebuilt the engine 5 years ago. I ran it about 100 hrs on penzoil HD 30. In the summer there was a lot of heat from the air cooled engine. I draine the 30 wt penz out then used royal purple 20-50. I noticed a drop in temp coming from the cooling system, How much? well I can only say the cooling system blows out on your back. I couldnt run it for only a couple hours before. With the 20-50 the air coming off the engine is only warm not hot. It has started up at -15 with no problem. Now I would not run synthedic in any engine that has old leather seals. The synthedic will disolve the seals. I have been told that it is impossible by people some years ago on this forum. But I have experionced it first hand with engine seals and any other seal in the lubercating system that is leather.. I also have wroking cubs that have penzoil HD 30 in them year round. Cold weather starting hasnt been a issue. Oil pressure comes righ up BUt I do let them warm up in cold weather.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
Second the Rotella 15w40....
In ancient times while doing cold start tests running straight 30W, we had to function within one minute at 32F (0C) and got a 10 minute warmup at 0F (-18C). Anything below 0F allowed the use of 0W20 synthetic.
Synthetics are pretty amazing at having super low temperature pour points - If you're using a full synthetic, just about any of them will work down to as low as we can get our tractors to start. I would be leery of using a straight 30 at anything below about 10F in these old tractors, that's why I just stick with the 15W40...
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