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Carburator Idle Tube

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Gene Chestnutt
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Carburator Idle Tube

Postby Gene Chestnutt » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:22 pm

Guys I need a source for a replacement idle tube for my IH carburator along with the proper tap to rethread the hole. Never thought about it being screwed in to the carb. If after a new idle tube is installed, the threads are a little loose---any suggestions such as loctite or some product that would not cause future problems.
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:29 pm

Gene, the idle tube is still available from Case IH. If you do not have a local dealer, try Carter & Gruenewald online at http://www.cngco.com

The thread is 4-48. A drop of loctite should work well.
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Thanks BD

Postby Gene Chestnutt » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:35 pm

Thanks BD--I will probably have to special order for a tap that small. Your Sharpei photo looks a lot like my Katy---all 89 lbs. of Basset Hound sitting in my recliner.
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:50 pm

That's a lot of Bassett Hound!
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Postby Rudi » Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:01 pm

Gene:

That tap should not have to be special ordered. Any decent gun shop or fastener house should have them. My buddy owns Maritime Fasteners and he stocks 4-48's as a regular item :o :shock: :? :roll:
I think they cost me all of a $1.50 each, so I bought a couple while I was at it. I usually misplace or outright lose stuff that small... :roll: :lol:
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Postby danovercash » Mon May 02, 2005 7:45 am

Get some (3) left hand drill bits starting with 1/16th inch and work your way to the edge of the threads, then pick out pieces. If lucky bit will back out broken piece. Carl Lurker can give better detail on procedure
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Postby cjpenny89 » Mon May 02, 2005 11:39 am

if you buy a tap buy the flat bottom tap otherwise you will go to far and wreck the carb before you get the threads tapped.

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Postby beaconlight » Mon May 02, 2005 11:54 am

There are three typy taps. 1 a starting tap that has a point and a taper for starting threads. 2 An intermediate tap to bring the threads closer to the bottom of a stopped hole as compared to a through hole. 3 A bottom tap , to just that tap a stopped hole to the bottom.
You use the starter or regular tap to start the threads and the others to further deepen the threads.
Things like that you have known all your life you don't think to mention when you really should to help people that have not had need to know previously.

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Postby George Willer » Mon May 02, 2005 2:37 pm

beaconlight wrote:There are three typy taps. 1 a starting tap that has a point and a taper for starting threads. 2 An intermediate tap to bring the threads closer to the bottom of a stopped hole as compared to a through hole. 3 A bottom tap , to just that tap a stopped hole to the bottom.
You use the starter or regular tap to start the threads and the others to further deepen the threads.
Things like that you have known all your life you don't think to mention when you really should to help people that have not had need to know previously.

Bill


In this case where it's likely you may only use the tap once, buy a starting tap. When you have driven it in until it bottoms, remove it and grind the end off in stages to make an intermediate tap and then a bottoming tap. It will work just fine.

I haven't seen it mentioned here... the tube has a much smaller orfice on the top end, the part that remains after it is broken off. It is not just a simple tube.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon May 02, 2005 6:13 pm

Wyley ole George Willer got that right. I have done that when i Needed a bottom tap 2:00 one morning. Forgot to mention that too.
Guess I am getting older by the minute.

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Postby ScottyG » Tue May 03, 2005 8:16 am

Guys, my tube has broken off as well but I've read several posts which indicate that the tractor will run ok without it. Can any of you substantiate this?
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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Tue May 03, 2005 9:15 am

ScottyG wrote:Guys, my tube has broken off as well but I've read several posts which indicate that the tractor will run ok without it. Can any of you substantiate this?


I put a carb together with a broken off tube just to see if it would work. I lost track of which one it is or which tractor it's on... can't tell by the way the tractors run. Some day if I ever find out which one it is I'll mark it for identification. I'm pretty sure the gasket has to make a good seal for it to work.
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Postby ScottyG » Tue May 03, 2005 9:20 am

Which I guess follows up with my next comment George, I never felt that the idle adjustment screw does a darned thing. 1 turn or 3 never seems to matter. So, if the tube ain't there, either, it would seem that the screw will even be less useful! :lol: :lol: :lol: :?
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Lurker Carl
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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue May 03, 2005 10:05 am

If the idle adjustment screw doesn't do anything, there is something blocking the air and fuel passages.

The tractor will run without the idle tube only if the part that screws into the throttle body is still in place. That's the part with the calibrated oriface.

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Postby ScottyG » Tue May 03, 2005 10:08 am

Gotcha. Yes, the threaded piece is still in place but it is broken off flush with the casting. Sounds as though I've got some flushing to do to get the idle to work correctly.

Thanks!!
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub


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