Farmall Cub

The "inboard" clamp and 5/16 bolt securing the horizontal distrbibutor bases (Cub and Super A) gives me fits when ignition timing requires adjustment...there's simply very little room for wrench-turning...especially on Cubs. I bought a 1/2 inch, 12-point combo wrench and cut away the open end to make a short-handled wrench for this application but it's still difficult to use. Does someone know a trick or special tool that can be used to loosen and re-tighten this bolt?

You know those chintzy stamped-steel wrenches that come with circular saws, for changing blades?

I got frustrated one day with that inner bolt, and went looking for a 1/2" wrench to cut down, when I came across one. I put a twist in it like one of those "cross force" wrenches, and formed it so I could get 1/6 of a turn on the distributor bolt.

What you are looking for is a half-moon boxend wrench. One will work beautifully in this application.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200396140

I have two of this style distributor wrench. Works on Cubs and most automobile engines. Available at auto parts stores.

I have a set of SAE and Metric Half Moon Wrenches and they are simply great to get in to some difficult areas where there is little extra room to turn a bolt. I also have a set of SAE and Metric S-shaped wrenches and they are really useful as well.


GearWrench Reversible 9 pc Half-Moon-Shaped Box Ratcheting Wrench Set

Unfortunately this set is no longer available but there are some other options - Half Moon Wrench Sets

I got mine at Princess - can't find them in the on-line catalog but they are still available. Darn good investment But then again I am a tool junkie

Most cubs I've worked on this inside hold down toward the engine block has been pitched by the last PO.

Yogie wrote:Most cubs I've worked on this inside hold down toward the engine block has been pitched by the last PO.

True statement. Recently finished ignition tuneup on 154 Cub-low boy. Back bolt and hold down were still in place. Getting the back bolt and hold down out were not a problem. Getting the bolt and hold down back in place was. Finally had to remove the coil to get a finger from both hands in place to install the bolt and hold down.

Eugene wrote:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396140_200396140

I have two of this style distributor wrench. Works on Cubs and most automobile engines. Available at auto parts stores.

I have a set like that, but too long to get in place on a cub.

Matt Kirsch wrote:You know those chintzy stamped-steel wrenches that come with circular saws, for changing blades?

I got frustrated one day with that inner bolt, and went looking for a 1/2" wrench to cut down, when I came across one. I put a twist in it like one of those "cross force" wrenches, and formed it so I could get 1/6 of a turn on the distributor bolt.

Smart!

I picked up a nice little Mac 1/2 - 9/16 half moon wrench at a flea market, a while back, cost me a whopping buck & a half! I put that in with my Cubfest tools! While I'm not really a purist and I'm not opposed to tossing the inboard bolt & clamp, something in me wants to put it back if it was there before. My little trick for getting it back in is to file the bolt hole oblong toward the clamping surface of the hold down. Then the clamp & bolt can be installed & screwed in a couple threads before installing the distributor. It can save a lot of frustration down the road!

I'm appreciative of the many ideas advanced on this topic. What do you think about replacing the inboard hex head bolt with a six or twelve point sockey head cap screw (SHCS) so an Allen key or rachet driven Allen bit could be used? Even my cut-down combination wrench is too big for the very small space between the distributor and engine block. I cannot even get a 1/4 inch drive sized (small) socket on the hex bolt head let alone drive it with any rachets, extensions, U-joints, etc. Another idea is to replace the hex bolt with a threaded stud and clamp the distributor with a nut of some sort.

If anyone decides to pitch their inside hold-down clamp, send it to me. I'll pay the shipping.

Ironlegs wrote:What do you think about replacing the inboard hex head bolt with a six or twelve point sockey head cap screw (SHCS) so an Allen key or rachet driven Allen bit could be used?

Since you can't see it, this will probably really p___ off the next guy that tries to loosen it. And the next guy MIGHT be you.

Ironlegs wrote:Another idea is to replace the hex bolt with a threaded stud and clamp the distributor with a nut of some sort.

The stud would probably work pretty well. You could install the distributor, hang the hold down on the stud then install the nut. This would curtail some of the frustration.

Even my cut-down combination wrench is too big for the very small space between the distributor and engine block. I cannot even get a 1/4 inch drive sized (small) socket on the hex bolt head let alone drive it with any rachets, extensions, U-joints, etc.

The space between the body of the distributor and engine block is to small for any tool. You need any of the curved or off set wrenches the guys previously suggested. The curved or off set wrenches will reach/turn the nut from narrower neck, under the distributor.

Gary Dotson wrote:My little trick for getting it back in is to file the bolt hole oblong toward the clamping surface of the hold down. Then the clamp & bolt can be installed & screwed in a couple threads before installing the distributor.

Another good idea.

Edit: I have a set of curved non ratcheting wrenches similar to the ones Rudi displayed. They will also reach the nut.

Ironlegs wrote:The "inboard" clamp and 5/16 bolt securing the horizontal distrbibutor bases

That should be a 1/2" bolt. Curously, I have never had a problem using a regular half-inch box wrench on it. However, I don't tighten the back one more than snug, and put the "english" on the front one to hold it. Haven't had a problem yet (touch wood).