Farmall Cub

Winter project is beginning. Got the oil drained, new filter with gasket. Going to try to repack front wheel bearings next. Do I need to remove the wheel weights before I try to remove the whole wheel itself? Thanks.

Not if you are strong.

The front wheel weight weighs about 25 lbs, so it's not a big deal if it's left on. The rear wheel weight on the other hand weighs 150 lbs.

Bob

May be a little tough to get the cap, cotter and castle nut off, but it's totally up to you.

the inside bearings stay on the spindle

Yep, like Boss says (can't get it off without ruining it). There is a good write up with pictures in the Operator's Manual too.

put wedges between the bolster and the front axle. It is mandatory when jacking the back and good practice when jacking the front. Sort of to keep in practice.

Jason, as Bob said, it's no big deal. Go ahead and pull the bolts off and the wheel and weight will come right off. If it has been on for a while you may have to knock it loose with a hammer.

You won't hurt anything at all. It saves you a little time by taking the weight off with the wheel.

Thanks folks, both front wheels are off (after some wd-40 and heating each bolt with an acetylene torch), hub cap unscrewed, cotter pin, castle nut, outer bearing, and hub off on each side. Leaving the inner bearing on. On the left wheel, one wheel bolt was complete missing. Is this a specific bolt or can I replace at a decent auto store? Repacking outer bearing this morning. What is the best way to clean parts these days? I don't have a parts cleaner, I was thinking simple wash tub and a diluted formula of Simple Green. I don't have Kerosene. Thanks again for all the feedback.

I just wiped out the 50 year grease and then used kerosene, but brake cleaner, simple green any detergent should do fine. Pack the bearings by hand and rotate them to squeeze the grease into the roller gaps before putting them back on.

While you are there, you might check the steering play at the worm wheel shaft. Both of mine had about 1/4 turn of slop that showed up as vertical movement of the worm wheel shaft. It's about a 10 minute job to unclamp the arm, tighten the worm nut, then reclamp the arm. Took about 75% of my steering play out. Don't get it too tight, as your steering will take Popeye to turn if you do.

redtruckfarm wrote:On the left wheel, one wheel bolt was complete missing. Is this a specific bolt or can I replace at a decent auto store?

It's a 3/8-24 fine threaded bolt. You ought to be able to find one at an auto parts or a well-stocked hardware store.

redtruckfarm wrote:What is the best way to clean parts these days?

I like using Castrol's Super Clean; comes in a purple bottle. Another "purple" product is called Purple Power. I've found it not as powerful as Super Clean, but it's biodegradable and safe for the environment. Try your Simple Green stuff first and see if it does it for you.

redtruckfarm wrote:What is the best way to clean parts these days? I don't have a parts cleaner.

Depends on the size of the part, parts location, type of crud, and what you can get away with.
I use spray cans of brake cleaner on small individual parts when I only have one or two to clean.
Quart of gasoline in a plastic tub, old paint brush, for larger parts with lots of accumulated crud.
I have a parts washer, kerosene solvent, where I can soak and clean parts.
Pressure sprayer for even larger parts and knocking off the exterior crud.

ntrenn wrote:I just wiped out the 50 year grease and then used kerosene, but brake cleaner, simple green any detergent should do fine. Pack the bearings by hand and rotate them to squeeze the grease into the roller gaps before putting them back on.

While you are there, you might check the steering play at the worm wheel shaft. Both of mine had about 1/4 turn of slop that showed up as vertical movement of the worm wheel shaft. It's about a 10 minute job to unclamp the arm, tighten the worm nut, then reclamp the arm. Took about 75% of my steering play out. Don't get it too tight, as your steering will take Popeye to turn if you do.

Not quite sure what you are referring to when you are talking about the "arm". I looked here:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... 20Axle.htm

specifically around page 3-10. Am I to understand I have to completely disassemble the front axle assembly and steering gear housing to do what you are suggesting? This looks like it will take a lot longer than 10 minutes.

Yes, on page 3-12, nut 29 is the one you want to tighten. Somebody here mentioned it, and it works....loosen the clamp nut that's in arm 25, pull the cotter pin out of nut 29, then slip a wrench over the nut. Turn the steering wheel and thread the shaft deeper onto the nut (turn to the right). Takes some back and forth, but there is just enough room to slip a wrench in the opening. Button her back up....Takes 20-25 minutes the first time you do it - less than 10 on the second one if your cotter pin cooperates.

I am not too fond of water based 'cleaners' on bearings or internal parts, but should be fine if you get it dry. BTW don't use compressed air to dry bearings.....

Lately I have been using 100% biodiesel for parts cleaning. It is a good parts cleaning solvent, supposed to be biodegradable and around here it has a hint of fried clams and donuts!