Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:49 pm
I bought a gal of Irongard IH 2150 red paint today and went to a automotive paint store to get a reducer and hardner. I was told IH 2150 was Alkyd enamel and would need to go to TSC to get regular enamel reducer and hardner. TSC didn't have it so I went to Carquest (formerly) Napa and was told I needed Acrylic enamel catalyst and Acrylic enamel reducer.
Maybe you guys that know this paint can help. Is Irongard IH 2150 Acrylic or alkyd enamel and can I use acrylic hardner and reducer with it?
Thanks for your help.
Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:15 pm
I am no professional auto painter but I have been finishing for decades. I use Dupont Centari Reducer and Catalyst(hardener) with Iron Gard paint. Have for years and it works quite nicely. This was what was recommended to my by CMax - aka NAPA Automotive Paint Division. I have been using many multi-parts for years and I haven't had any difficulty with the Centari line and Iron Gard at all. Not even fish eye or orange peel.
That is just my $.02 on the topic. Others have debated the pro's/con's and some are far more technically proficient in the paint theory than I am, I just know what was recommended and the results. I painted my battery box and my Cub-54 Blade in 04 with Iron Gard mixed with Centari reducer and hardener and it is still pretty much in the same shape today. Whatever that is worth.
Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:22 pm
It is a synthetic enamel, I use it all the time, I buy a generic syntheic hardner and enamel reducer from the parts store, never had a problem
Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:46 pm
If I understand you correctly, I would need a synthetic enamel hardener and reducer instead of acrylic enamel hardener and reducer. Is that right ?
Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:19 pm
Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:44 pm
If I might ask, what is Ironguard going for now? My gallon is so old that I can stir it but a paint brush won't go in it. I used the reducer that the parts store recomended (Nason), but I don't think that they like each other now. They said if any air gets into the can, it will start to thicken. Maybe some plastic wrap over the unused portion may have helped. I had only used about 1/4" of product.
Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:47 am
Good morning Dan,
Got up early this morning thinking about this paint and all the combinations of hardeners and reducers. I know what a mess I can make spray painting, I can see it now, fish eyes, orange peel, textured ceiling, places I have scraped runs off, and who knows what else will be looking back at me from my cub when I am spraying this stuff with my alien suit on. I guess I just need to mix up some paint and go at it who knows it might turn out pretty good, We will see. Oh yeah the Irongard IH 2150 is $61.95 a gal. at Southern Farm Supply In Union Grove NC.
Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:32 am
Thanks, I think when I got mine it was between 35 and 40 dollars a gallon.
Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:15 pm
Ok, Here is what the salesman at the IH dealer store told me today. Irongard IH 2150 spec sheet says this, The current IH paint is an "acrylic modified alkyd enamel" meaning it has some acrylic components added to it, notably UV or anti-fade inhibitors. And could use Acrylic enamel hardner and reducer but was not recomended, better to use Alkyd enamel hardner and reducer.
Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:38 pm
is an Acrylic Enamel. The reducer and catalyst mixes well with the Iron Gard though. I intend to continue using Centari with Iron Gard simply because of the good results I have gotten over the years. Only difference now is that I am going to be using a space alien suit as the catalysts can be a problem for one's lungs. You can also use the Centari Catalyst and native lacquer thinners as the reducer.
I also like the Nason
line - a really good paint. Reasonably affordable as well.
Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:45 pm
Didn't Ironguard used to be "soya-alkyd"?
Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:12 pm
After reading how dangerous breathing some of this stuff can be, and not useing good equipment in the past, I am planning to be more carefull from now on with spray paint.
Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:45 am
Paint questions are a lot like oil questions, in that if you ask 10 people, you'll get 10 answers. With that said, though, I've noticed that a lot of automotive paint suppliers are offering the same reducers for both alkyd enamel and acrylic enamel. I guess they didn't want to mess with the inexpensive reducers anymore when they can sell you the expensive stuff instead. It seems to work just fine, but it's gotten to where the reducer is one of the most expensive components of the paint job. George Willer always reduced alkyd with acetone, it seemed to work for him.
Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:38 am
Gary Dotson wrote: George Willer always reduced alkyd with acetone; it seemed to work for him.
I’ll agree with you on that. George painted a lot of tractors flawless. On the other hand George did everything with perfection!!!!!!
I do a lot of painting on tractors/ machinery /trailers and trucks and in my opinion safety of painting is very important as brought out in all the articles.
I’ve used the alkyd enamel type paints with or without hardeners (Irongard IH 2150 on red IH tractors, Van Sickle, Rustolum Industrial, Valspar and many others) and really didn’t see any difference in longevity or color fade between the different manufactures.
What I have found, in my opinion the best “bang for the buck” is Napa brand signal stage Acrylic enamel. I have a truck that was hit by a Deer five years ago that was refinished with Napa Acrylic enamel and has always been exposed to the weather 24/7 since the paint job and it looks the same now as the day it was painted.
We’ve painted a few trailers with it and we’re mostly happy with the abuse it takes from hits of cargo/ect.
If I was going to paint a tractor that is kept undercover and used for show I would paint with alkyd enamel type paints for health safety..... a working tractor setting in the weather I would go with the auto refinishing Acrylic enamel type paint….but paint outside and use the proper equipment.
I’ve heard some positive talk about the water base Acrylic enamel’s but I haven’t tried them yet.
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