Paint/ primer

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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby gitractorman » Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:45 pm

Well..... I had a friend paint the hood and sheet metal, so yes, those parts were sprayed with hardener. Most of the cast iron was either brush painted or sprayed with rattle can (or both), as I just didn't feel like mixing up individual cans of paint when I was ready to paint the various parts. Not exactly the way I would like to do a paint job, but the results are pretty good. There are some very slight visual differences, but it's mostly due to the high shine of the hood and sheet metal parts instead of actual "color" differences. I do notice that the front axle tube and front wheels are not as shiny as the hood, but those are about the only really major items that stand out. All of the cast iron stuff looks fine, again because of the difference in surface texture. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with how it came out.

This is the hood that the guy painting it called me one night and asked "what year is your tractor?" I knew that it was a late 1951 from the serial number 143728. He laughed and said, "well, the hood was made in October, 1951, because the guy signed and dated it underneath." As he was sanding he found the script, and got real curious, so he started sanding it by hand and revealed the signature and date. It was on the bare metal, so I'm not sure if it was the person who stamped/welded the hood, or the guy who painted it. Guess it could have been anyone down the line in between, but it's still pretty cool.
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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby Super A » Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:25 pm

I want to throw a hypothetical out here. Say you use the caseIH Irongard paint and primer. No hardener, in other words, you can wear a good respirator and be ok using the stuff. Is there a way to keep it pretty and shiny like it has hardener? Would regular waxing work?

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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby Rick Spivey » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:35 pm

Dave F. wrote:Rick, Do you have a Napa. paint number? For the IH 50 paint. Thanks Dave F.


Sorry, I just got back to this thread, and saw this question. As luck would have it, I still have the can, and the bill, for our paint supplies from NAPA. I will also try to find a picture of the finished tractor, but that was 2007, and 2 computers ago....

The information below is also from 2007.

NAPA Crossfire Automotive finishes 51B-224, International Red #50
Hardener was CH254 (I think that was the hardener)
Reducer was CR233
We also used some thinner 15240

At that time, the paint was $34.99 in quarts, total paint and additives ran $112 (2 quarts paint, 2 quarts reducer, 8 ox hardener, 1 gallon thinner).

Found a picture from 2010 Stonethrow.

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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby JackF » Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:15 am

Rudi, it’s snowing here again and more on the way, I can’t get out so I called the Napa store and they E-mailed me this back….This is what I came up with. Sorry I couldn’t do better.

It looks like Rick got the Red color info but I’ll post what info I got which is the same….

Jack, The Ford red you used is a deeper red (Candy Apple tint). Dodge truck uses a red that is much closer shade to IH. Your tractor came with IH 1102B, which as far as I know cannot be mixed.You have a choice of the 1937-mid-1949 of IH 50/PPG 70019/DuPont 7410 or the 1961-up IH 2150/PPG 71310/DuPont 96766, both of which can be crossed to Martin Senour/NAPA Crossfire Code 51B-224 for Code 50/2150 .1102B was used from mid-1949-1958 (International Harvester not International). I think Code 51B-224 is too orange but all the IH restorers’ like it. The rims, the older GM rally wheel colors is ok, those are a silver gray color.

The Blue you asked for; bring a color sample in and I’ll try to match it.
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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby Rudi » Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:27 am

Jack:

Not snowing here. Only got a light touch of snow so far, most of it has melted. We are still hoping for a white Christmas -- course after Christmas we is gonna get nailed... :lol:

Thanks for the NAPA information I have it snagged and will update the Paint Chart to reflect some of the differences. I still need to figure out/get clarification on what tones where used what years.. '47 to '57 approx was a time of flux for paint at IH coming out of the war so there were a lot of changes depending on what pigments were available to the civilian market after the rationing etc. so that is kinda confusing.

Rick's info on the deeper cherry colour for the '47's and possibly a couple years later on is useful and actually adds some clarity to that period. There are differences between IH50 and 2150 -- I am trying to understand the 1102B though. Be nice if we could get some of that information. Seems to me from my research and others that 1102B was for Implements and not the tractors. Where did you find that info on 1102B for tractors? I is curious.

Do you have a code for the GM ralleye wheels? Would these be the ones say on a Goat or a 442 etc. in the '68-'70 period?

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Re: Paint/ primer

Postby JackF » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:32 am

Rudi,

This is the reply from NAPA. As you can see they refer to Redpowermagazine.com and what is humorous (but really a credit to your hard work) Redpower after going through their posts they refer to Farmallcb.com to the paint codes you put in….So I guess we have come as they say full circle…… :roll:

NAPA reply-Jack- 1937-1961 was #50. 1962-1980 was #2150. When the "New Style 1958-1962 "460-560 models came, the paint change came in as well with the 201A '58-'59 and 1102B mid '59-'62. Napa doesn’t have history info on this paint; I get it from the people on
http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70011 and http://www.ihcubcadet.com/BobsPage/cubpaint.htm

GM wheel factory code: Argent Silver 05P: WHEEL COLOR, ARGENT (91)
Ditzler/PPG DDL 8586
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Napa is #7245, (professional detailer line), and labeled for 50's-60's wheel

Rudi wrote:
Not snowing here. Only got a light touch of snow so far, most of it has melted. We are still hoping for a white Christmas -- course after Christmas we is gonna get nailed...


After I leave this snow H%!!.... I’m going where it’s warm, get a tractor with a metal seat, let it set out in the sun for a period of time, put my swimming trunks on…. sit on the seat until I break out into a sweat. Then I’m going swimming to cool off and when I get cooled off …. repeat step one.
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