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i was quite impressed at what this little tractor can do. i pushed 6" of wet and heavy snow without a problem, i have a fairly long and wide driveway. these little tractors and push allot for the size of them and having an engine only rated at aprox 12 hp. i always get a charge out of that being only rated at 12hp, i think perhaps they were under-rated especially in this day and age when every cheap little POS sears lawn tractor has a single cylinder briggs rated at almost 20. to think that little singe cylinder lawnmower engine has more usable power then a four cylinder tractor engine is a laugh, sad part is that there are fools out there that believe it. i found that 2nd gear is ideal for pushing snow. i also think the touch control hydraulics is well a "nice touch" i really like that feature and its hugely convenient when plowing snow. im really surprised that there arent more people out there using these great little tractors for plowing snow, mowing lawn and gardening. they would rather buy a new cheap POS lawn tractor for $1,500, a snow blower for $900, and a tiller for $900. the old farmalls are a much better deal, they can have their cheap crap made in china we all know what works best at a reasonable price
I plowed with mine today too, and thought all the exact same things you did, lol. I know torque is the force applied to a turning shaft. POWER. when you take that torque and apply it over a certain number of rpms. SPEED you have power over time i.e. WORK. Which is measured in hp or kW? So it still baffles me that the available work rating would be higher on a crappy little Lowes mower than a much larger 4 cyl gas engine. Further more it defies logic that a 24hp Kohler twin could lug down and pull more than 24 horses. No matter what sort of gearing or traction you hooked it to. (I have seen horses in action and they are actually pretty strong). I wonder if maybe on the newer engines they use a different rating system to let them show higher numbers so 1. Joe public can get more excited when shopping 2. To allow more grams of nox and co2 for emissions permitting during production.
I used to work for the gas company doing mechanic work on stationary engine compressors that push gas down the line. A 1939 Ingersoll rand 4 cyl XVG compressor is about as big as a VW beetle and has a flywheel that weights over 2 tons and is rated as a 150 hp engine. Weird right?
HP is rated different for farm tractors than for other applications. HP for most is brake hp. Hp on a tractor is rated at the drawbar and pulley, now sometimes on the PTO which on a cub is the same thing. 12 hp would be on the pto. The drawbar hp is given as 9 hp.
No snow to plow yet. Forecast was for a big storm friday. Yeah. We got 0.3 inch of snow. According to the tv guy this was the first measurable snow we've had since feb 25th. Another station says still no measurable snow. The cub and the cadet are both ready. Vern
people arent too smart when they buy that shiny new piece of plastic/tin/aluminum junk they think in their mind is a "tractor". it is nothing of the sort, it is nothing more then a glorified lawnmower. only if they would realize that they could buy a 40-50 year old farmall farm tractor for the same or less money that has already had some rebuilding work done to it for the same amount of money. one of the old farmall cub's, A, or super A will fit in most 2 acre lawns. i bought a cub for $1800 that included a 4 wheel weights, tire chains, plow blade, sickle bar, and a belt drive. i bought a C3 mower for $120 and mule drive, belly mower pulley, and drive belt for $190 that included shipping. thats a setup that will do everything i need it too and should last quite a few more years before the next overhaul. thats a much better deal then the junk on the market. If more people would stop buying that junk then less of it would be produced. if they wanted something smaller on of the old IH built cub cadets or even on of the CCC cub cadets make a much better machine then something new. some people are just lazy, those are the people buying new. a cub is an exceptional value even if it is 40-60 years old
Glad you both are impressed with your Cub's ability in plowing snow. This is something that I have learned over the years is truly impressive. Provided you take short cuts the Cub can plow most snowfalls except those that are very deep - say in the 12-24" range that is kinda wet. A number of our members have experience with plowing rather deep snow as well and they do it regularly. A well tuned Cub is key to this as well as a properly configured and installed blade.
Most folks can be fooled by the term tractor as a tractor can be defined as a machine that is capable of towing implements or trailers. This leaves huge leeway between a Lawn Mower and a Highway Tractor or a Diesel Electric Locomotive
One of the biggest areas where people today are confused is the term Horse Power.
Many of the newer Lawn & Garden tractors (ridem's) are pitched to the buying public with large HP ratings when in reality the ratings are not all that accurate. For that vast majority of applications HP in expressed in terms of Peak HP achieved on a test bench under no load which is an unrealistic test. As soon as you load the engine, the HP decreases exponentially.
During the Nebraska Tests where the Cub was determined to have between 9 and 12 hp +/- (over a number of tests during the production life of a Cub) - the HP determination was made by the amount of work the tractor could produce as compared to 1 horse or more. In the case of a Cub that is the power of 9 draft horses. Googling Drawbar HP will give you all the information you need. A team of horses could do a fair amount of work in an hour but were no comparison to a tractor which provided a substantially more ability to work for less cost.
Surprisingly Drawbar Horsepower measurements apply to more than tractors which I did not know When it comes to Lawn Mower Horsepower Measurements - a number of interesting articles pop up such as - Familiar Horsepower Rating No Longer Standard.
There is a whole raft of articles on Horsepower and how it is measured. Certainly will provide interesting reading for those who are well ... interested
To a manufacturer, marketing is king - whatever it takes to sell your product which is why the buying public need to be educated on what to look for and an understanding of the basics.
I have and old table and radial arm saw that was 3 hp and 2.5 respectively. But they would bog down. I ask a electrician friend about this and he called it "developed hp". I checked into it and sure enough in small print that is what I had. Loose your rpm and you loose your power quickly.
I also plowed snow for the first time the other day. I've used bigger tractor blades and blowers before but if you don't mind taking a little longer there is a lot of satisfaction in using that little tractor to push snow. I did find you had to watch the down pressure on the blade. A few questions for all you snow plowers out there:
How many of you have the uppper link? Does it float the blade? Does it effect the height of lift of the blade? and How do you keep wet snow from sticking to the blade?
Happy plowing everyone!!
Pam works along with any of the other cooking oil sprays. They have to be applied regularly though especially if your blade has some rust/scouring on it. My blade was painted with CIH IronGuard with Centari Reducer and Hardeners. It requires no additional products to keep the snow from sticking.
Here are some other products that will do the job for you:
Slick, IceX and SnowJet for a few.
Pam is probably the most economical or any of the no-stick cooking sprays from the Dollar Store, Wally World, Target etc.
I plowed with mine for the first time this week, hoping to plow with it for the second time tomorrow if I can resolve the fuel issue in the morning.
It did pretty well for not having tire chains, I think it could handle a bit bigger blade with chains (maybe even 6ft?). I love the high lift of it, it's really nice for building a taller pile and clearing more area without having to push it way off the drive. My Wheel Horse only gets the blade maybe 6" off the ground. Wheel Horse has the maneuverability advantage though, it's about half as long and has a narrower blade.
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