Farmall Cub

I have several tops with the rounded edge. Did IH everchange to a squared edge on the Cub battery box top like the one below? It also doesn't have any rubber bumpers. I know they went from four to two, but did they ever remove them completely?

Or is this an aftermarket as I suspect?

It looks aftermarket buttt I saw one just like it, Cecil has it on one of his cubs and it has IH parts decal on it, could not believe they used it
Tim

here is on just like it cheap with the front
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FARMALL-CUB-BAT ... 20ce63e4f5

Upon further inspection it may be the same one
Boss

Oh the later ones did not have rubber bumpers

The one pictured is the one from ebay. I have one or two like it also so I am trying to figure if mine are original or aftermarket. It was easier to use the one from ebay than trudge through the snow and pull one from the barn for a pic.

I guess mine could be original if Cecil has one like it with the IH # on it.

Aftermarket. As recently as ten years ago, the CaseIH OEM lids had the welded, rounded corners.

I visited a local show where OEM Tractor Parts was there and they sold lids with or without the bumpers and brackets. All of theirs had rounded corners like factory. Very heavy gauge.

The open square corners are aftermarket, bent on a hand brake. The original rounded cornered lids are stamped out of one piece(no welding required unless some touchup is needed by a repairman). Norm Quay stamps his own rounded cornered heavy gauge lids( a work of art)

My .02 Rick

Barnyard--I agree with Rick and Don, definately aftermarket. I bought one exactly like the one in your photo off e*ay a few years ago. Light gauge sheetmetal and squared off, open corners.

When I built my battery box/lid, I think I used 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal, but the top was the most difficult. I wanted the rounded off look, but didn't have a way to press/shape the corners. See here: viewtopic.php?f=64&t=68630&hilit=+battery

I kept leaning toward it being aftermarket. I went to Ebay this morning and saw where the one I used for a sample sold for $50.00 with the front. For that much I would buy a rounded corner from Norm. At least his look more original.

The biggest issue with the cheap overseas model is the rear light brkt. Doing a search will reveal how several of us had issues with the flimsy brkt vibrating and breaking off. George Willer actually lost an expensive rear light with the bullet on top while trailering his cub . I actually contacted one seller and complained about that bracket, to no avail, still being sold today.

Norm's has the beafy brkt.

Rick

My local CASE/IH dealer still sells the good quality top and front covers. Not sure on price, but they are available.

Like Rick said, the import boxes are too thin and the vibration of the tractor chassis and engine really affect it.

I have much the same experience. The imports are simply garbage - way too light gauge steel and the bracket is a joke. I couldn't afford Norm's so I had 14 or so of my own made out of 14 gauge sand kote. Worked out well even though they had to be bent on a brake (stamping is out of the question since the CN Shops are now gone ) and they were all welded. Same with the bottoms. Labour intensive but effective. If Richard hadn't passed I probably would have had a few more batches made. Since he passed I have given up on making my own up here and will definitely order Norm's from now on as needed. I have enough for my 3 Cubs but -- that's it and the 4th one is hopefully on it's way to it's new home here in the spring

The original boxes are 14 gauge (about 0.075). Most of the better aftermarket boxes are 16 gauge (about 0.060). The boxes by O.E.M. are 16 gauge. Some of the imports are 20 or 22 gauge. I suspect that the thinnest boxes do not provide good ground for the battery cable.
Relatively few job shops are equipped to cut and bend 14 gauge.
Where an original box is mostly sound, cutting out a damaged section and welding in a 16 gauge patch can work well. Hold the patch flush with the outside and weld with gas-shielded MIG from the inside first, then outside. Grind flush, sandable primer and glazing putty as necessary for smooth surface and it looks good as new.
The unregulated charging systems tended to boil batteries and the acidic electrolyte damaged the boxes.