Farmall Cub

I have to fab the plate that bolts to the bell housing (has the three holes.. believe its referred to as the "axle brace support plate") as mine is missing.
Can anyone advise the measurement between the bottom hole, where it bolts to the housing, and the very lowest hole, that attaches to the two axle braces, and the width, thickness, and total length? I can probably guesstimate, but its better to work off the real deal. thanks in advance. kelley.

Kelley,

:oops: Edit - If only I read the title of your post - you have the 54A (i.e. new version) same part number in both versions...but why do they look different? The old (i.e. 54) looks wider than the new (i.e. 54A)

Old version;
TM Tractor

New version;
TM Tractor

Peter

Just went down and measured mine, looks like 3 inches center to center should do ya

Kelley:

GraderMounting Layout PDF has most of the parts - not for the front mount but for the belly mount. What Chad has marked as the Bell Crank Extension is actually part #1 below:

Thanks Rudi... that was absolutely perfect!

Good morning Kelley,

My Cub Standard #90633 has the "newer" 54A blade as in the TM picture. My Support Plate measures 1/2" thick, 3" wide and 9" long. On a centerline mid-width of the 3" dimension, and running the 9" length, the top hole is 1" from the upper end, the middle hole is 4" from that top hole and the lower hole is 3" from that middle hole, ending up about 1" from the bottom edge.

Better yet, instead of trying to use a thousand words, here's a picture:



Hmmm, that was easy... don p.

You are welcome Kelley - That's what that section of the server is all about

...Interesting,
Cub 54 (Old Style) uses same part number as Cub 54A (New Style) even though the size of the piece is different.
Cub 54 is 3" wide.
Cub 54A is 2" wide.

Length and hole locations are the same.

Peter

Peter Person wrote:...Interesting,
Cub 54 (Old Style) uses same part number as Cub 54A (New Style) even though the size of the piece is different.
Cub 54 is 3" wide.
Cub 54A is 2" wide.

Length and hole locations are the same.

Peter

IH probably figured they could save money by using less steel. As long as the replacement part fit the old product the part number would remain the same but the revision would change. Notice that the old style is R2 and the new style is R3.

Stopped by my local steel supplier.. bought a 1' piece for $5. Seemed kinda high, but anytime you cut a standard length piece and leave a drop, they charge you a bit more. Probably could have bought an entire stick it and it would have averaged out to less than $2 a foot...but I no good way to stick a 20' stick in my squad! (yeah, I swung by on patrol... this place is about 40 miles from my house...)
Took about 15 minutes to scribe it out, drill pilot holes, drill finish holes, and cut it to length. Worked great. Thanks for the information, gentlemen.

Kelley:

Glad it worked for you.

That is a constant quandry for me. I don't like paying a premium for the steel supplier to cut me a piece to length, but what am I going to do with 20 foot stock, stick it in my Grand Caravan The van is about 12 feet too short. Maybe have to put it on the roof rack...

It sure is cheaper to buy it by the 20 foot length, but storage also provides a problem.

Stopped by my local steel supplier.. bought a 1' piece for $5. Seemed kinda high, but anytime you cut a standard length piece and leave a drop, they charge you a bit more.

I don't mean to get off topic but the price of new steel today is stupid expensive, cut charges or not! I paid $45 for 10 ft of 1 1/2" .250 wall square tubing the other day - holy crap! I'll buy drops when I can but it's still expensive. ...and structural steel these days is low grade, mostly Chinese imported, rusts up really quickly and scales really badly. Next time I'm going shoping at the scrap yard first!