Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:10 am
I was planning to run the oil for a while and change it again. I couldn't do that with the Ford 601 because it held 6 1/2 gallons of gear oil and 5 qts of oil. I tugged on the crankshafts last night and didn't feel any end play. It appears the engine has had a complete rebuild because the pistons appeared to be newer than everything else on the block. I was actually shocked how big the pistons were and i'm suprised the engines are only a 1.0. I have a press I might could use with a 2x4 to straighten out the oil pan.
Last edited by Gumby on Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:16 am
Here is a picture. I tried loading 2 but one keeps loading upside down.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:21 am
Handsome Cub! Looks to be well cared for.
This may be useful if the PDFs are a problem, made from Rudi's manual server. Also has a searchable parts list (but no electric for some reason??). I would be lost without paper manuals in the barn! http://www.farmallcub.info
Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:08 pm
If you haven't already re-filled the transmission, I recommend you put kerosene in it, drive around for a bit, then drain the kerosene and re-fill with gear oil or hy-tran (your choice). That will help to clean the transmission .
Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:14 pm
I'm stumped. My cub has been converted ton12 volts. I hooked up the lights tonight but they wouldn't work. I am getting 11.76 volts to the wire but the bulb will not light up. Since it was converted to a negative ground is there anything special I need to do?
Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:23 pm
Gumby, are the bulbs good. Were they converted to 12 volt also. If not they may have blown due to too much voltage. The ground wouldn't matter whether it was pos or neg.
Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:39 pm
I bought brand new bulbs.
Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:42 pm
Gumby wrote:I bought brand new bulbs.
Were they 12 volt bulbs?
Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:57 am
Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:34 am
Likely a grounding problem. Until just before they were 12V from the factory (early 60s's) they only used one wire to the fixture, so anything between the ground at the battery and the light bulb could cause a problem. Things like well painted light posts or corrosion will trip you up.
Also the fuse in the dash is for the lighting system.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:03 pm
Another problem. I don't think the guy converted the 6 volt coil whenever he switched it over to 12 volts. What coil is recommended for a 12 volt system? It runs for a few minutes and cuts off. I can restart it immediately. Its not a gas problem but its acting like I turn off the switch whenever it shirts off.. I am guessing that coil is on its way out due not being able to with stand the other 12 volts that its not designed to withstand. Will any 12 volt coil work?
Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:33 pm
Before I heard of this forum, I converted my low-boy to 12 V....Made the brackets, got the old GM alternator,rewired the cub etc etc....My problem was the coil....I couldn't find any parts supplier that knew about internal or external resistance coils especially TSC....After much trial and error, I finally just got a voltage reducer and went from 12 to 6 for the coil...It has served me fine...I also replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter gauge....Had I have known about this forum at the time I would have saved myself a lot of frustration...I'm not recommending, just telling you what worked for me...Maybe you've got a voltage reducer in line their somewhere....
Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:57 pm
Gumby wrote:It runs for a few minutes and cuts off. I can restart it immediately.
Could be and probably is a low fuel supply issue. Remove the plug from the side of the carburetor and with a container catch the draining gasoline. Watch the fuel flow for 60 seconds. There will be a sudden gush of gasoline, your want to see a decent stream of gasoline draining out for the full 60 seconds.
If it were an ignition issue, tractor wouldn't immediately start right back up.
Gumby wrote:What coil is recommended for a 12 volt system?
Eugene wrote:Coil. If you use a 6 volt coil or a 12 volt coil with out internal resistor - you need the Chrysler ballast resistor. Cheap at auto parts store. Usually under $5-. If your used coil contains the internal resistor, then you do not need the Chrysler ballast resistor.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:26 pm
Other filter cross references I've found are C235(fram) and 51153 (Wix). IH dealer by me is cheaper than the car stores with whatever they stock.
Oil pans don't mind body hammer work. I prefer the cork gasket (I've been warned against using RTV by my local pro mechanic) and use Aviation Gasket Sealer - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... d=aviation
Best gasket glue I've ever used.
Also have been able to get past the bell housing with 1/4 drive socket and wobble extension. Takes talented fingers to start the bolts, though.
Fri Feb 08, 2013 6:52 am
I cut a slot in the rear oil pan bolt heads with a hacksaw. They start easy with a screwdriver.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.