Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:00 pm
Hi guys, I am currently working on my 1948 cub that has been handed down to me. It was restored to look good over 30 years ago and has not had much use since. Actually I dont think it really ever got that many hours on it. It had a belly mower on it that I sold to get a set of cultivators for my garden. To me it seemed like it did not have any power. It would barely take off in 3rd gear without much feathering of the clutch.
So I decided to take the hood off and check everything out and give it a tune up. That was a while ago and like I said in my other post, Life, work and my first child kinda took over. Well my daughter is just over a year old and I have one more on the way in the fall. So if I ever want to see this great machine run and work now is my opportunity!!
I bought a carb rebuild kit, and a tune up kit (plugs,wires,cap,rotor). The wiring was in need of some love as well. Well just yesterday I decided I am way behind and need to get moving. With all the new parts on I rigged up a fuel supply (hood still off) and went to start it. First problem was the carb leaked like it did before. After some reading on here I discovered I should not have used the TSC kit. I am going to order another one from Steiner when I figure out what else I need. No big deal it will still run with a leaking carb. I spin it over and it spits a few times but no start. Sounds like I have it out of time. THis is where the fun begins. I pull the mag off and the number one plug to find tdc. Thats when I discover I have no compression on the number one cylinder. I go ahead and check the rest to find none on number three either. Two and Four are perfectly fine. Ok, I am hoping for a stick valve at this point, Pull the cover and yes the first one from the front is stuck open. I assume that is the intake valve? Same valve on the number three is stuck as well. It has its fair share of cabon build up in there, but it is eligible for social security. I worked them both free and they seem to have plenty of spring tension on them. My question is, could this have been my lack of power even though it did not seem to be missing and sounded good while running. Also could this be resolved with a good flushing with a bg oil cleaner? Or should I bite the bullet and pull the head? I am going outside now to go ahead and set the timing and see how it does. Maybe adjust the valves while I am at it. I will look for the adjustment procedure on here. Hot or cold?
I will post back this afternoon with my findings. Thank you in advance for any advice you may have. Jim
Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:57 pm
Sea Foam in the oil and the gas and work it hard and you most likely will be pleased with the difference. The work it hard will surprise you with what will come out of the exhaust. You could put a couple of tea spoons of sea foam in each cylinder and let it set a day or two before working it hard if you want.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:15 pm
Definitely, adjust the valves. It is very common for them to need adjusted and be the reason for low power. Go ahead and use the Seafoam to clean up the carbon and work it hard.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:21 pm
yesdeere wrote:Hot or cold?
Adjust the valves cold.
Here is the simplified adjustment instructions. This method allows you to adjust all valves and only have to turn the engine once.http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/Valve%20Lash%20Adjusting%20Procedure.jpg
Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:13 pm
Thanks for all the responses so far! I got it soaking in sea foam now. The timing is set and I am about to adjust the valves. The chart is very helpful, now I just need to know what feeler gauge to set them with. Does anyone have a preference in parts houses? I have used Steiner and Farmallparts,com and have been happy with both. I am disappointed in this carb. Thanks again
Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:32 pm
Wow! What a resource this sight is. I found the specs, .015 cold on the valves. And the timing at 16 degrees btdc. THe funny thing is I only have the tdc notch on my crank pulley. But I can advance on my timing light so it should not be a problem, I hope. Is that fairly common or should I get out the sandpaper and find that mark? Any way I really appreciate all the help and this sight! I apologize for the many posts and the urgency. I am just excited to see it smoke again.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:33 pm
There is a video in the how to section on timing the mag if you need it.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:44 pm
yesdeere wrote:Does anyone have a preference in parts houses? I have used Steiner and Farmallparts,com and have been happy with both.
Depends on what I need. My preference is either a local place I can walk into or one of the 4 advertisers listed at the bottom of this page. Between the 2 you have used, I would unhesitatingly go with Steiners.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:57 pm
yesdeere wrote:And the timing at 16 degrees btdc. THe funny thing is I only have the tdc notch on my crank pulley.
With a mag, the advance is 13 degrees. A '48 Cub pulley only had 1 notch. Static set the timing and you should be done.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:52 pm
OK, I got her fired up and she is running like a beast. I did have a lot of crud exit the tailpipe. I want to thank everyone for the advice, it is much appreciated. The valve adjustment was a breeze, they were actually too tight and needed to be backed off. I set it at .015 per specs cold and sealed her back up. No gasket but I cleaned it up and used a good silicone(gray perm). Once I fired it up and got it smoothed out I set the timing. As was said it didn't take much. I went clockwise until it clicked in, and checked it with my light. 13 degrees per spec and purring like a kitten.
Now on to the carb. I didn't mention this earlier because I was having so many other issues, but this is my second carb. Bought from a junkyard because the original was warped and would not seal at all. I will start another thread about this since it is another issue. I am losing faith in rebuilding the carb again even though I used the TSC kit. I paid $75 for the junker and I wish I would have bought a reproduction.
AGAIN THANK YOU ALL!!!!
Pics of the work
Also a shot of her in her glory
- Kerr iPhone - 1687.jpg (11.32 KiB) Viewed 419 times
- Jan 30, 2013 - 66.jpg (9.43 KiB) Viewed 419 times
- Jan 30, 2013 - 62.jpg (11.49 KiB) Viewed 419 times
Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:58 am
The warped carburetor can be corrected.
Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:05 am
Now on to the carb. I didn't mention this earlier because I was having so many other issues, but this is my second carb. Bought from a junkyard because the original was warped and would not seal at all.
A lot of the members have a jig/tool to straighten the carb. check the how to section, there used to be on on there
Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:36 pm
The carb I bought at the salvage is actually straight. I am going to see if I can tell where the leak is today. Thanks
Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:03 pm
Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:56 pm
I recommend the Steiner carb. kit, and get a bowl gasket from Case/ih or from TM , who is a forum sponsor, http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/921fp.htm
, here is the link for the gasket. When you rebuild the salvage kit, put all the jets in it that come in the kit. The reason for using the Case/IH bowl gasket [ TM sells the Case/IH one ] Is the one in the kit is sub-par in my opinion.IHS825 is the Steiner part # for the good kit.http://antique-tractor-parts.steinertra ... +kit&view=
is the link for the kit. I will assure you that you will be pleased with the results
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