Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:39 pm
First thanks to everyone who helped get the cub running and mowing this past summer. I went to put a hydraulic system on the cub and I knocked a wire off the back of my new light switch. I thought I knew where the wire went... After priming the hydraulic pump I went to start the tractor and test the hydraulics. Then she started smoking. The wires running from the on side of my ignition switch(the one with a key and not my pull start push stop knob) got hot and started to smoke. The insulation started to melt but I cut the power to the system before there was too much smoke. The one wire comes from the alternator and the other goes to the coil. Now it cranks and won't start. It sounds like it is trying to turn over and the carb is getting plenty of gas (puddle of gas under the carb). My question is did I short the coil? I tested the positive and negative side of the with my volt meter and no response. My other question is could I have melted the points? The good news is that the hydraulics moved when I was cranking trying to get her to start, so I guess with the help of this forum I successfully able to rebuild the pump and the block. And thanks to Tim for delivering most of the hydraulic parts on his way to the cub fest.
Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:51 pm
Without seeing exactly how everything is wired, it is a little difficult, but normally there would be a wire from the ammeter to the light switch and to the ignition switch. this wire provides power for both the lights and ignition. I suggest getting a voltmeter or a test light and checking if you have voltage at the hot side of the coil with the switch on. if not, start working your way back toward and through the switch.
Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:13 pm
Probably easy to find the fault, providing you have the wiring diagram and diagnosing technology.
My question is did I short the coil? I tested the positive and negative side of the with my volt meter and no response. My other question is could I have melted the points?
Not likely. Neither the coil or points would cause the short. The short is prior to the coil in the wiring schematic. - Some place.
Question: Did you rewire the Cub? Or original, factory, wiring?
Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:20 pm
The ammeter on one side connects to the starter, the other side connects to the ignition switch, lights, and the alternator. It is not the original wiring, I replaced all the wiring when I installed the alternator a while ago . It had previously been rewired and those wires had seen better days. The wire that disconnected when I put the hydraulics in was from the headlights to the new light switch. I am assuming I reconnected that wire to the back of the switch in the wrong spot and that is what caused the short. With the key in the on position I am not getting any power to the side of the key that connects to the coil and the alternator. I am getting power to the side that connects to the ammeter. Unfortunately I don't have any spare wire at the house to try and test stuff. Just trying to figure out where I need to stop for parts tomorrow and try and fix the tractor before having to celebrate that lousy holiday tomorrow.
Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:31 am
Laying in bed last night, I figured out my problem. Before work used a jumper wire to bypass electrical switch and it started right up. Problem solved.
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