steering wheel play

[Joe in Pa.]

What is the best way to remove/lessen the play in the steering? The wheels and tie rod ends are tight, The toe in is correct, but at "higher" speeds the front end wobbles badly and there is between a 1/4 to 1/2 turn play at the steering wheel.
Thanks in advance, Joe

[Bigdog]

If the tie rod etc are tight, then your problem is likely either in the steering arm as it exits the steering gearbox or is worn gears inside the gearbox. If you look at the bottom of the gearbox where the steering arm is attached you will see a castellated nut. Make sure that nut is good and tight. If that doesn't help, then you'll need to drop the gearbox and do some re-working.

[George Willer]

What is the best way to remove/lessen the play in the steering? The wheels and tie rod ends are tight, The toe in is correct, but at "higher" speeds the front end wobbles badly and there is between a 1/4 to 1/2 turn play at the steering wheel.
Thanks in advance, Joe

I just did another one last week. I started with nearly 1/2 turn of play. I reworked the gear box by fitting the worm wheel permanently to the worm wheel shaft using J.B. /Weld and eliminating all vertical play in the shaft. I have the play down to near zero. I also fitted a new seal so I can use 90 wt for lube and get rid of that !#$%^ worthless grease!

Don't EVER use grease in the gearbox. I found all the grease in the odd places in the gear box and water surrounding all the important surfaces.

Too late I thought of doing a photo essay of the procedure.

[ScottyG]

While we're on the subject, I have a similar problem with my steering with wobbling. I had already tightend up the play when I refurbished to within about an 1/8 of a turn. This does not control the wobbling however and I can just "picture" the worm gear teeth clashing together with the constant impact. I'm pretty convinced that the gears aren't worn all that badly as the whole thing worked pretty well on the bench. Is there anything more I can do other than what was suggested with the castle nut?

[George Willer]

Scotty,

Consider the wobbling to be a contest between the two wheels to decide which one will decide the direction the tractor is going without a clear winner. If there is too much toe-in one wheel steers while the other skids. Ideally when the tractor is in motion there will be no toe-in at all and both wheels are running straight ahead. The reason we start with toe-in is so that when rolling resistance comes into play the wheels are neutral. If your steering is in good shape you need very little toe-in.

This was a long-winded way to say try reducing the toe-in.

[ScottyG]

Thanks George I'll try it!!

[Jim Becker]

Too little caster can be a problem too, but usually isn't. If your axle extension (outer axle) is or has been loose on the center section, wear can allow the bottom end of the extension to move back from where it belongs. This will reduce the caster.

[Joe in Pa.]

Thanks to all.. I'll be looking into it over the next few days.

[kylev]

Is it ok to heat the ty rod end to straighten them or just put them in a vice and manhandle them?

[Jim Becker]

Getting them really straight will probably require heating them. If you have adjustable length tie rods (for the adjustable axle) they will have to be very well straightened to be able to adjust them.