Farmall Cub

The manual says to set the wheel tread to 44" for plowing. I like to leave mine at 40" cause I'm lazy. Does the wheel width matter that much? It sure plows fine to me....

Nothing wrong with doing it that way. Does your depth adjusting handle rub against the tires? Mine does on my 40" wide cub. 44 inch width will make a wider furrow

tmays wrote:Does your depth adjusting handle rub against the tires? Mine does on my 40" wide cub.

Yes, if im not careful it does. A PO did some creative bending on the depth handle and it just barely clears the tire (9.5) Evidently he was lazy too...

As far as plowing a wider furrow, could you not just move the plow mount on the drawbar over to compensate for the narrower tread?

44" is where you need to be, especially with the 9.5" tires. However, if you are committed to leaving the tires at 40" you can continue as you have been doing and "get by." A good crop(no matter what crop) begins with land preparation and land preparation (in your case) begins with plowing. Do a less than an excellent job plowing and the deck is stacked against you. You will be doing a lot of work after plowing and it will all be up hill because of the plowing job.

The good news, you only have to move the right tire and you will be fine.

Roger has a valid point. Thats what the manual shows for the high and wide cub. The plow is bolted to the drawbar closer to the wheel than the standard cub, so I could try moving the plow one set closer to the center.

Good point. Should work just fine. You'd only have to move it over one hole to regain those 2"

Bill Hudson wrote:44" is where you need to be, especially with the 9.5" tires. However, if you are committed to leaving the tires at 40" you can continue as you have been doing and "get by." A good crop(no matter what crop) begins with land preparation and land preparation (in your case) begins with plowing. Do a less than an excellent job plowing and the deck is stacked against you. You will be doing a lot of work after plowing and it will all be up hill because of the plowing job.

The good news, you only have to move the right tire and you will be fine.

Thats good advice. I use a power tiller for finishing instead of a disc though, so my poor plowing skills are not as obvious.

Moving the plow in will work. However the operational problem still exists, based on an assumption (we know what can happen when you do that) I'm making. That is that since the rear wheels are set at the narrowest setting the fronts are too, 40 5/8 inches center to center.

What's the problem then? If the operator holds the inside of the front wheel against the furrow wall, the rear wheel is always trying to climb out of the furrow, especially with 9'5s, wasting power and creating unnecessary sidewall wear. Moving the right rear wheel to the 44" setting, leaving the fronts at 40 5/8", will place both inside surfaces of the right side tires in essentially (essentially, because of the 9.5" tires) the same plane. This makes it possible to hold the front wheel against the furrow wall and plow with less mechanical effort.

Hopes this helps.

I doubt Clodhopper is trying to flatbreak 100 acres. A little bit of tweaking the settings to meet his needs will get by. Move the plow over one set of holes towards the center to make up for the narrow tread and don't try to hold the front wheel next to the furrow wall. If the front axle is as narrow as it will go it is tracking about the center of the rear tire, same as if it was set on 44". Let the rear tire "find its way" in the furrow and let that dictate where the front tire tracks.

Al

Moving from 40" to 44" oughta take like 5 minutes. You don't have to move weights or anything. Just jack up the rear end, and swap left to right and right to left.

Bill Hudson wrote:Moving the plow in will work. However the operational problem still exists, based on an assumption (we know what can happen when you do that) I'm making. That is that since the rear wheels are set at the narrowest setting the fronts are too, 40 5/8 inches center to center.

What's the problem then? If the operator holds the inside of the front wheel against the furrow wall, the rear wheel is always trying to climb out of the furrow, especially with 9'5s, wasting power and creating unnecessary sidewall wear. Moving the right rear wheel to the 44" setting, leaving the fronts at 40 5/8", will place both inside surfaces of the right side tires in essentially (essentially, because of the 9.5" tires) the same plane. This makes it possible to hold the front wheel against the furrow wall and plow with less mechanical effort.

Hopes this helps.

What a great explanation Bill. I just learned something new ...

Our Cub is set at 44" and the wife wants wider rows. Any reason for not setting wider? Wider means harder to roll over.

grasser wrote:Moving from 40" to 44" oughta take like 5 minutes. You don't have to move weights or anything. Just jack up the rear end, and swap left to right and right to left.

Now that's funny right there.....It would take me 5 minutes to get my tools togther!

But seriously, I bet you couldn't tell the difference in his plowing once he was done, regardless of the wheels set on 40 or 44"......

Al

Thats true Al. I cant see it it making THAT much difference. I am going to move it over to the center one more hole and try it out, but either way it plows like a charm.