Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
I need so advise on removeing what is left of my Battery Box on my 64 the heads on the bolts are so rusted till i cant get a grip on them with a wench or vise grips! whats my best option? cut them off an drill them out!? or what else could i try?
Tractors are like watermelons..Eat the red and throw away the green!!
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Have you tried heat and a penetrant?
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
When they are rounded off sometimes I grab my metric socket set and a big hammer. Drive one on that is real tight. Apply heat if necessary to loosen the bolt. Has worked pretty good for me on almost everything.
This is a common area where bolts can deteriorate. Normally if there is a decent amount of material left on the bolt head, I will weld a nut to it, heat up the area, and remove with a socket and extension, but from what you are saying, they must be all but gone.
I would grind off what is left of the bolt head, remove the box, and drill out and re-thread the holes.
A six point standard socket works well also, but it doesn't sound like he has much of anything to grab onto, if not even a vise grip will work.
Sears and others sell a socket that grips damaged heads. I've used them successfully, a number of times. Bolt outs, or some such name. Ed
50 ,52,53,56,59 F Cubs, 55,55,57,63,63 fast hitch, 64 lo-boys, 71 154, 184 lo-boy,61 cadet original. IH spreader,IH corn grinder, Oli. OC3 ,AC D10 ,IH 444 , Potato digger, wagner ldr 3 power units.
More than likely you'll end up grinding the bolt heads off then drilling down the center of the bolt and using an Ez-Out to turn the old bolt out. They probably won't come out too hard at that point. I believe they are grade 5 bolts and shouldn't drill that hard.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
Weld a new nut on top of what's left of the old one. Preso, good grip and applied heat
Make it your ambition to lead a quiet life, to mind your own business and to work with your hands, just as we told you, so that your daily life may win the respect of outsiders and so that you will not be dependent on anybody.
Small pipe wrench may work as well. I've to remove more than a few this way.
I agree with Ed. I have a set of these from Craftsman. Removed a lot of bolts with them.
I had the same problem and the Bolt-Out is what worked for me. There was hardly anything for a socket to grab on, but these did work. A judicious amount of heat, allow to cool and then penetratinging oil, they spun right out after that.
Where you are, right now, is of absolutly no use unless you are able to get away from it, FAST!
I recently removed the seat on my 69 and I tried everhing known to man including my Naval vocabulary and the only thing that worked was welding a big nut on top and applying a lot of heat.
I started out with nothing and now I only have half of that left !
Odds are that if the heads are corroded that badly, the threads are corroded too.
If you try to turn the bolts out with brute force, they will simply twist off, and you'll be stuck drilling and re-tapping.
Do NOT try to use an "E-Z Out" on the stuck bolts. Bad news. BTDT. There has been a broken-off E-Z Out stuck in the right axle extension on my 1967 Cub for the last 7 years.
On the next Cub, I welded 1/2" or 5/8" nuts on to the rounded off heads, making sure they got red hot. Then I let them cool. After that they turned right out, no fuss, no muss.
If you can do the weld on nut thing you will have the best results. I've only seen that technique fail once, and then I think it was because we did it wrong.
I took my 49 off by welding BIG bolt to the top of the ate up head and used 3/4" drive breaker bar while they were still red hot from welding,---BUT you have work fast before they cool down on you,---also as soon as they start to come loose after a few threads squirt used motor oil in there and keep turning and squirting!---takes 2 people to do it AND gets VERY smoky and messy but gets the bolt bottoms out! thanks; sonny
I agree, these are great, and they can be used with an air impact. With mine, I took a hacksaw blade and cut 2 sides off the bolt head, then squirted penetrating oil in there, then used a large crescent wrench to remove it.
Tractors are like watermelons: the RED is good and you throw away the GREEN.
Who is online