update on electrical problem

[scott gillespie]

Dear Artc, Bigdog, and John:

Thanks for your suggestions but I still have a no go. In looking at some older posts today, a saw one posted on April 21 by Taurlik in which he had the same exact problem. I think that some of you responded to his post as well with similar offerings. I talked to someone yesterday that had a similar problem once and even had spark to the plugs and the cub wouldn't start. He put a new coil on and it started right up. I have one ordered and it should be in tomorrow. I know that you all felt that my coil is o.k. but at this point I am willing to spend the $50.00 and take a chance. If it still doesn't work, then I can eliminate one more piece of the puzzle. I hope this will work. If anyone else out there has encountered this problem and found a solution, I would appreciate some feedback. I know that this isn't rocket science but I'm getting a little tired of looking at the inner workings of a cub distributor and getting nowhere. Thanks.

Scott

[Bigdog]

Scott, I didn't think to ask earlier but when you replaced the plug wires did you use solid metal core wires or the composite wires that are in use today? A mag will not produce enough energy to overcome the internal resistance of the composite wires. You have to use metal plug wires.

[George Willer]

Scott,

Two years ago I had a big, embarrasing problem with the tricycle Cub at a show. One of the best ATIS mechanics worked with me off and on during the whole show and none of our fixes lasted. When I got it home I replaced the condenser and it's been fine ever since. Problems are a lot easier to solve in the shop.

[Matt Kirsch]

Scott,

I know you replaced everything, and everything LOOKS good, but looks can be deceiving. My dad and brother put a new cap, rotor, condensor, and points on my Super H one weekend. Danged thing wouldn't start. Put the old stuff back on, and it fired right up. Next weekend, we pulled it out to replace the seal on the PTO. After we got that done, I took it for a little joyride. Danged thing quit 100 feet from the shed and wouldn't start again.

Checked fuel flow. Everything LOOKED good, so we suspected the coil. Different coil didn't help. Still no fire. Pulled the cap and rotor, and everything LOOKED good. Just for shiznits and giggles, we put the new cap and rotor back on. Fired on the first turn over and ran like a million bucks. It was missing before, hasn't missed a beat since.

As it stands, we really can't see a bloomin' thing wrong with the old cap and rotor. They LOOK fine, but the tractor won't run with them. We chucked them in the trash.

[Dale51]

Scott,

As it stands, we really can't see a bloomin' thing wrong with the old cap and rotor. They LOOK fine, but the tractor won't run with them. We chucked them in the trash.

Probably the cap was ok the rotor was burned Thu to the top of the dist shaft I'll bet real hard to see sometimes.

[55cub958]

I have a similar problem (off and on) with my '55. After double checking
everything else about 47 times, I am going for the coil, in the hope that
will take care of it.

[beaconlight]

Scott did you ever get running?

Bill