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Farmall Cub • View topic - cub 28a disk harrow

cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:02 am

According to the manual you should be able to lock the disk in the raised position and disconnect the arm to the rear rockshaft and use the front rockshaft for other purposes. Has anyone ever gotten this to work?

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Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:10 am

I'm trying to think what you'd need the front for with a disk on the back. I guess you could have your universal mounting frame with a Layoff bar for marking rows in your garden right after you disk.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:00 am

John...not sure about the disc, but my ash spreader is held similarly, with the rod unhooked at the front.
The weight pulls the rockshaft arm and the connecting bar into a straight line, and that is as far as the rockshaft rotates.

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Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:03 am

Hey John, I'm guessing you've tried this and it didn't work? I think the key is to disconnect the front rockshaft at F in your diagram.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:52 am

Brandon Webb wrote:I'm trying to think what you'd need the front for with a disk on the back. I guess you could have your universal mounting frame with a Layoff bar for marking rows in your garden right after you disk.
Belly mount disk plow was what mainly came to my mind. I at one time had a 152 disk plow and was thinking about plowing gardens in town. I could not get the hold up to work the way it is shown. I could do it by putting a chain from the drawbar to the horizontal shaft of the rear rockshaft, but after thinking it over and how much my back bothers me, plus knowing how cheap people are in this area I decided to abandon the plan and sold the plow, reverting to the 151 which is much easier to mount. I now only plow gardens for close neighbors. I don't charge them money for it, but the pay back in labor when I need help and free garden stuff is worth more than the money.

Smokeycub wrote:Hey John, I'm guessing you've tried this and it didn't work? I think the key is to disconnect the front rockshaft at F in your diagram.
Up, tried it more than once, and never could figure out a way to make it work. Before you can disconnect the lift rod you have to be able to get the pressure off it.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:03 pm

Things that make you go, hmm. :?: Now I'll have to try it and see what's up. It looks like it takes an extra set of "locking straps". Looks to sort of triangulate with the rear rockshaft.
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I don't think my cultivators have those on it.
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Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 1:31 pm

I have the locking straps, just have not figured out how to make them work. Tried it the way it shows in the manual, also tried it below the bar, neither worked. Tried with a pin on each side of bar, still no help.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:34 pm

john i always wondered the same thing maybe jim will come along to answer i cannot get it to work either

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:16 pm

I've never had or used one of those disks, so I don't know how it is supposed to work or what the problem is. Is that some sort of flexible link at the end of the rockshaft or is it just a fixed extension?

I would guess the way you should use it is to place the locking straps and put a pin through them above the rockshaft arm. Then ease the Touch-Control back until the load is off the lift rod. Unpin the lift rod from the Touch-Control and let it rest on the Touch-Control rockshaft.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:58 pm

Jim, that is a flexible link at the end of the lift arm. When you raise the disk with it the link is actually higher at the rockshaft end than at the disk end, just the opposite of what is shown in the illustration. I have tried doing it as you suggested, and when you let the lift down, it just goes to the ground, it never holds the disk so you can disconnect the lift rod.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:37 pm

This is why I have a 23A Disk :lol: . Don't know anything about this one but I remember this conversation from a couple years ago. Jim's question about the flexible link got me looking a little closer at the drawing. Of course we all know how reliable the drawings are :wink: but I don't see the second hole in the rear lift arm. Which leads me to believe it's pined/bolted into the one farther from the end. Is the flexible link length such that the other hole would be the distance of the end hole in the lift arm away? If so maybe you pin it through the end hole (or raise it above the lift arm and let it rest on a pin) then do the bracket hanging thingy. That would stiffen it up which is where I think the problem arises, being able to pivot in to many spots.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:23 pm

Scrivet, I hate to admit it, but i think you are right. I guess there was a reason I put up with you as a neighbor all these years. I will pull the Mott off and try it tomorrow.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:25 pm

smokey cub is correct. you need to disconnect at F. the pin just floats instead of being connected at the front rockshaft.

Todd

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:05 am

Removing "F" from the front rockshaft is the last sentence in the manual and in the first sentence of John's post. That is NOT the issue. The issue is the "drawbar locking straps" do not hold the disk up once "F" has been removed.

I think it is because the front pin in the "lifting clevis" that attaches to the rear lift arm should be attached to the second hole of the lift arm, not the one on the end as John has it now. This will allow the disk to float when it is in the down position. When it is in the raised position the portion of the lift arm past the second hole rests on the underside of the "lifting clevis" and becomes a solid, no longer pivoting, connection due to the weight of the disk. The locking straps then will form the third side of a fixed triangle to carry the disk.

Re: cub 28a disk harrow

Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:05 pm

Scrivet was right, moving the flexible link to the hole closest to the tractor solved the problem. For some reason my lock bars were to short to reach the rockshaft, but i used a piece of chain to extend them, and they locked the disk in the up position which allowed the lift bar to be removed. an added benefit was that the disk now stays level when lowered. With the link in the last hole the disk would lean forward or back depending on how far you moved the lift lever resulting in the blades only cutting on the ends or in the center. Now the blades stay level without worrying about how far down the lever is moved.
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