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Been working on the '49 Cub when I can, changing fluids, getting it unstuck out of reverse, etc. My original purpose for purchasing the cub was to outfit it with belly mount and rear wheel cultivators to cultivate a diversity of vegetable crops. I had JP ship a set out before I knew what my own tractor did and didn't have. Apparently I do not have the fast hitch set up so I am just attaching the rear toolbars to the rear rockshaft arm, which is connected to the IH touch control. In the manual it looks like I should have the Master Control Lever set up where my touch control bar extends back to the rear rock shaft. I set up the rear cultivators yesterday to weed between beds and it worked well, but for some reason I am thinking that if I attach the belly mount portion of the 144's (4 standards), I will not be able to cultivate both within and between beds in one pass. In other words,I'm thinking I will have do two passes per bed. Am I wrong?
Also, very related, it appears oil is leaking out of the top of the oil filter assembly. I posted a long while back about my Touch Control experiencing a consistent knocking when in the raised position. Someone mentioned that my Hy-Tran oil may be leaking into the Oil Pan. I'm guessing the oil leaking everywhere is a sure sign of this as I changed the engine oil no problem and ran it fine before adding new Hy-Tran oil in. Do I need to replace the touch-control pump gasket? How difficult is that to do. Thanks again. Happy Spring.
It may stink when mixed with motor oil, but HYTRAN straight out of the jug smells GOOD to me. Not sure why...it just does.
I'll be drinking that free bubble up, and eatin that rainbow stew.
When it mixes with the motor oil, gets hot and turns black, it stinks.
The oil will be BLACK BLACK like as if it had never been changed and they added some black ink to it.
Did I mention, it will stink?
I am not sure if I got it correctly, but I think you are asking if the belly and rear cultivator sets can be used independently. The answer would be yes, and the answer to the second question in regards to having a hand lift for the rear section to operate independently would be correct as well. Otherwise the belly and rear will lift and lower simultaneously. That is what I do, I haven't found it to be too much of a problem... the ends of my rows usually are not as nice as the rest anyways, so ..... But if you want to be able to drop the belly section first as you get into the garden and then the rears as it comes into the garden, then your thought process is bang on. JP should be able to help you with the master lift package.
As far as the oil question, probably yes, sounds like you have Hy-Tran leaking down into the oil pan. Have a read in the GSS-1024 Touch Control and the How To Rebuild A Touch Control Pump article in the CBoK.
Thanks for your thoughts. I should have been more clear. My concern is that when the rears are down the belly's will be up. From what you describe my fears are unfounded. For some reason I thought I had to have the fast hitch for both rears and belly's to go down and up at the same time. Thank you for the links to working on the hydro pump. I will dig into those next.
Nothing in here leaves me totally convinced you have a seal leak in the hydraulic pump (although the evidence does strongly suggest it). You need to track your oil leak back to the source. It is probably just motor oil and a leak at the filter itself. Hydraulic oil leaking into the engine would not just show up at the oil filter. A leak of hydraulic oil into the engine will show as increased oil level in the engine and lowered level in the hydraulics.
Tke knocking sound could be the result of air in the system, which could be from the oil leaking out. But again, that would show in the hydraulic oil level. Does the knocking stop if you pull the control lever back a little bit? If so, the mechanical stop for the lever may need adjusting.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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