First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

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First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby oldiron1 » Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:29 pm

Hi Guys,

having "Cabin Fever" lately, It's been a little while since I've tinkered with any of my tractors, but have been excited lately since it's got a little warmer here in Wisconsin lately and brought my Demo Cub up to my house figuring that it would be a fun "after work" project; not to mention fun just running down my neighborhood streets.. :D While this Cub has a strong engine in it, there are a few areas that need tinkering yet. It has a little bit of a valve/lifter tick which I hope to fix with some adjusting, but the first thing is addressing the throwout bearing as I can't get it into gear without alot of grinding and when I push the clutch peddle all the way down, I can hear and feel the bearing noise.

Thinking that if I have to split it to do the bearing, I may as well put all new clutch parts in it to. I first checked out TM's website and see they don't offer a whole "kit" like I've seen a few sellers with on eBay. This will actually be my first time splitting a Cub, so I have a few questions:

I see different sellers with both 5.5" and 6.5" pressure plate...which size clutch do I need for my 1950 Demo Cub?
Is there a good source for a whole kit that folks have had good luck with?
Is there anything else that I should check out or look for as long as I have the Cub apart?
Any tips from experience is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for any education! Rob
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby RaymondDurban » Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:48 pm

Rob, it really is pretty straight forward. Before you tear into it, are you sure that you cannot adjust the fingers?
How does the TOB look? How much material is left on it? Are the fingers all adjusted to 1 1/4"? Free play on the pedal adjusted to 1"?

If everything has been looked at and splitting is necessary to change parts out, then plan on a day to do this. A extra hand would be great if you can round someone up. Also might want to think about the rear main seal and pilot bushing while you are in there. You need the 6.5" diameter plate.
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby oldiron1 » Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:57 pm

Thanks Ray......you certainly have me thinking now because the answer to your first couple of questions is....no and I guess I'm not sure. I guess this is my lack of experience (ignorance I guess) talking. I jumped right into the mindset of replacing parts right away, but I may be jumping the gun.

I've never adjusted a clutch before, nor know how to, so after a quick search, I found Rudi's post from 2005 helps, but any further suggestions/tips are appreciated.

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6994
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby RaymondDurban » Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:10 pm

Looking up through the inspection hole, how much graphite is sticking out form the metal retailer? I think they new they are about 1/2", so depending on how much is left and/or it is chipped/cracked up will determine if it needs to be replaced. Since you can hear and feel the clutch chattering, look for wear on the TOB hanger, and corresponding wear on the pressure plate adjustment screws and jamb nuts. Check the fingers and their pivot points for cracks.
Check out this thread for adjusting the fingers through the insp hole:
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543

A new disc is approximately 1/4", and I'd be willing to be yours wont need replacing unless its coming apart.

After all the above has been checked and corrected, then you adjust the pedal to 1" free play.
If all is adjusted correctly, then you won't have any more grinding!
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby pickerandsinger » Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:48 am

I just did mine 2 days ago....I found that I didn't need a second person, I just took a long screwdriver and turned the pressure plate from under the tractor...I did pull the coil wire for a fail-safe option...Tractor in neutral, no problem turning it over....I fashioned a 1 1/4 "wrench" out of some old flat steel (an old small plant hanger actually)...and then when I got my measurements, I just reached up and engaged the clutch till the throwout bearing just touched the fingers and finished my adjustments by eye....It was my first time in doing this procedure so it took longer than it would take me now , for sure.....I used a real long pair of vice grips with narrow jaws(from harbor freight_ very "lightly" clipped on the locknut, so I had 2 hands free for the screw driver ( I got mine from sears)...I took a piece of wire and wired a goose necked De Walt trouble light, thru the small hole forward of the inspection hole so I could see well and it was out of the way and had at it....I could do it now in an hour or less I would guess...Its really not a big thing, just a bit intimidating to consider doing for the first time....Have fun....Dave :{_}: .....These things mentioned worked for me, it don't make them the correct way to do it...Maybe the other fellows have a reason for using a crank and an extra person....
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby TJG » Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:16 am

While you are up the hand hole grease the throw out bearing if you haven't done so recently. RaymondDurban is correct that the clutch pedal will probably also need adjusted after you adjust the clutch fingers.

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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby pickerandsinger » Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:59 am

Yes besides the clutch pedal adjustment I should have mentioned I used a 1/2 in wrench to loosen and tighten the lock nut....Only used the long handled vice grips to hold the nut while adjusting the finger....dave
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby Denny Clayton » Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:13 am

Sometimes the pilot bushing needs a little lubing so the transmission shaft doesn't drag.
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby oldiron1 » Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:09 pm

Thanks alot guys, I really appreciate your help and input!!

Just to see what I'm working with, I popped the inspection cover off....on my back with my flashlight in my mouth, I attempted to get a couple of pictures with my camera....The clutch itself looks really nice and clean and actually the plate looks almost new. It's very clear to me though, that the fingers definitely do need adjustment though as without even turning the engine over to see the third finger on top, when I push the clutch pedal in by hand, I can see one finger being pushed before the other finger even gets touched. The throwout bearing doesn't look new at all however I'm not sure how to tell if it's good yet, or needs to be replaced?

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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby cub47 » Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:41 pm

Besides the dimensions Raymond provided earlier, you also want about 1/8" between the face of the bearing and the fingers.

The bearing appears to have a lot of wearing surface left, there might be some chipping on the outside edges, hard to tell exactly from the pics.
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby RaymondDurban » Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:27 pm

If the fingers are adjust to 1 1/4", and the pedal then adjusted to 1" free play, theoretically you should end up the the 1/8" gap in between the TOB and fingers that Brian mentioned.
The TOB looks good from here. Clean it up and put some grease in it though, it looks as if hasn't seen any in a while!
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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:19 am

cubguy47 wrote:... there might be some chipping on the outside edges, hard to tell exactly from the pics.


I'm with Brian on this. The TOB appears to have almost half of the wear surface chipped away from the lower part of the bearing. Check that part closely. If it were mine, I would replace it.

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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby Rick Prentice » Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:28 am

when I push the clutch pedal in by hand, I can see one finger being pushed before the other finger even gets touched


Rob, assuming it's a top finger, don't pay too much attention to that. Even a brand new setup will do the exact same thing because of the engineering design of the swinging TOB holder. Like the others have stated, get your fingers exactly at the 1-1/4" mark, and adjust your freeplay so you end up with an 1/8" gap between the fingers and TOB. The only other thing I'd be concerned with is the fact that I can see in the picture where the finger adjusting nuts have been hitting the TOB holder. If they've hit hard enough, it could've caused the TOB holder to be racked sideways and that would cause the TOB to NOT be centered. That could be some of the reasons your TOB has chipping around the outer edges. You'll just have to do the things you know needs done, then see how things work.

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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby Rick Prentice » Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:57 am

Another thing to check---- does the TOB swing in the holder? Is the holder too tight or way too lose. It's supposed to have just enough tension to keep the TOB from flopping back and forth and yet squeeze just enough to allow it to swing in the holder during the pedal travel. This is something everyone needs to inspect when they do a clutch job. If a holder has been racked(usually caused when you hear that "jack-hammer" sound), it needs to be taken apart and each side bent back straight to center the TOB and get the proper tension of holding the bearing from flopping.

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Re: First Cub Clutch Job - Where to Start?

Postby oldiron1 » Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:55 pm

Thanks Rick, I do appreciate all of your advise!
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