Farmall Cub

I want another tractor. I had a '66 Ford 4000 that was mostly used for deer plots and such. I did a top end overhaul and new connecting rod bearings, along with a complete teardown to the engine drivetrain, sandblasting and repainting, and reassembly. I have a pretty good idea of what's needed for an overhaul and lots of spare time. I plan to start a one to two acre market garden plot. I have access to a 65 horse 4wd tractor for the heavy work. so. . . I know asking you guys on this forum what the best choice is is like asking a surgeon if I need an operation, but will a cub do all of what I need, or should I be looking at a Super A or 100?

L mike

Since this is a Cub forum you will get a lot of the only tractor is a Cub. I own two IH Cubs just to let you know.

Actually there are better small tractors for universal work. My opinion, if you only had one tractor for all your small chores/work, the Super A would be great.

Basically I would pick a small tractor popular in your local; hydraulics, 3-point, standard pto.

Well let me answer your question this way. IH designed the Cub to provide modern mechanization to truck farmers and others with farms less than 40 acres who usually where using a mule or a horse. So yes, this is exactly what the Cub was designed for. Is it the only tractor capable of this? No, it isn't. Kioti, Kubota and many of the short line modern units can do this work as well, however the units cost many hundreds times more than a Cub.

Suggest you follow the links below - read a couple of the Owner's Manuals and see exactly what the Cub can do. The Cub is the perfect tractor for market garden farms.

to Farmallcub.com Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of which is the Cub Manual Server. Enjoy!.

Since you already have access to a larger tractor should you require it, then the SA/100 is going to be a bit larger than the Cub. Personally using a Massey 1040, a homebuilt tractor and Cubs in my gardens (which comprise about 3 acres or so), the Cub is far more maneuverable, takes less space to turn, uses very little fuel so is economical and the implements do not cost as much as the larger ones. Also since the Cub was the all time champ when it came to total production of the same basic model, there are lots of parts available and lots of implements. Purchase price of a Cub will be substantially less than an SA/100. This also depends on how common Cubs are in your area and how available parts/implements may be.

Of course this is JIMHO .... you will get other responses and opinions. It really will be up to you to decide what will make sense for you. My Cubs not only do my gardens, they plow my snow, haul my wood, twitch logs, splits my wood and countless other tasks that most folks don't believe a Cub is capable of. I do ensure that I never operate outside of the Cub's safe operating envelope.

You state you have a ford 4000, that should a 45 to 55 hp range tractor. My question would be why a need for a larger 4 wheel tractor? A 4000 ford will turn and disk a lot of ground, but would be a pain to try to garden and truck patch with.

My thoughts from experience, at a much younger age [ 1960 or so]:::: I had an 8n ford and a 100 Farmall [ and luckly a 40 hr + job ] we worked about 25 acres of truck patches. The offset Cultivision tractors has no equal { well the G Allis Chalmers and similar open front are good also ] I do not cultivate with the cultivator behind me, leaves too much hoe work.
The Cub is the best tractor I have ever used to cultivate small plants with { for one row, the B Farmall is the best two row I ever used ] ' You can set your cultivator " sweeps or Scratchers, set the shields [ fenders where I came from] select the approporate gear and throttle and kill a lot of weeds and grass. The row is right down thar at your feet between the inside of your ankles. The only thing better but much slower is a well trained mule and a hytemiller scratcher and or Georgia stock, but it eats when you do not plow. The Cub just sets in the shade and rests sleeply

Can a Cub handle 2 or 3 acres? Yes the second Cub i saw [1948] handled about 40 acres of cotton and some corn ground, the old neighbor had an old D john deere he turned and disced with. His two grown sons started at 12 midnight monday morning and stopped at 11:45 saturday night.

I think the only issue with the cub is the addictive quality. Most people will agree that changing the implements on a cub is a pain and that you will probably want to have one cub per implement.
If going the cub route, get a fasthitch and only buy implements designed for the tractor.
Being that you already have larger tractors for ground breaking, maybe just keep a cub as well with a full set of cultivators to tinker with.
You can plant and fertilize one acre by hand.

If you are planning to sell your larger tractors, then a more modern tractor with a 3-point hitch and a 540RPM PTO would probably be more practical.

I sold the Ford several years ago. Too much money needed to bring it back from the dead for me. I got it running well and looking good. The cultivators seem to be the strongest point to me. Any opther tractor with that advantage costs far more.

L Mike

Being you have access to a 65 hp. tractor for heavy work, I would say by all means get a Super A, 100, 130, or 140. It it not quite as nimble as a Cub but it will do everything it will do, and then some. Plus you don't have to remove the gas tank to remove the hood and the PTO turns the right way at the correct speed!

Al

Just my 2 cents....I love my Cub and have owned one (sometimes 2) for the past 11 years or so...but for a modern commercial operation (even a small one) I wouldn't even consider a tractor without a 3 point hitch.

Just as an example...I once owned a beautiful Howard Rotavator for my '58 FH Cub...did the job alright, but it was a pain in the arse to attach and set up. Parts are hard if not impossible to find....and EXPENSIVE if you do. The speed reducer then made it impossible to use my grader blade mid-mount unless I had a spacer fabricated for the alternate drawbar.

Sold the Rotavator for $1400, bought a Ford Rototiller for my JD 750 for $500 and have never looked backed!

Then again there is the appeal of using the antique equipment. I get that. Last thought...if your operation is more of a hobby thing and time and money are not important issues, I would think the enjoyment from using something like an A or a 100 would trump using a modern Kubota for example. If this is a bit more serious venture where your time IS money I would think a modern 3 point hitch would trump the nostalgia of using an antique tractor that lacked it.

Good luck!

Bigschuss wrote:Just my 2 cents....I love my Cub and have owned one (sometimes 2) for the past 11 years or so...but for a modern commercial operation (even a small one) I wouldn't even consider a tractor without a 3 point hitch.

Just as an example...I once owned a beautiful Howard Rotavator for my '58 FH Cub...did the job alright, but it was a pain in the arse to attach and set up. Parts are hard if not impossible to find....and EXPENSIVE if you do. The speed reducer then made it impossible to use my grader blade mid-mount unless I had a spacer fabricated for the alternate drawbar.

Sold the Rotavator for $1400, bought a Ford Rototiller for my JD 750 for $500 and have never looked backed!

Then again there is the appeal of using the antique equipment. I get that. Last thought...if your operation is more of a hobby thing and time and money are not important issues, I would think the enjoyment from using something like an A or a 100 would trump using a modern Kubota for example. If this is a bit more serious venture where your time IS money I would think a modern 3 point hitch would trump the nostalgia of using an antique tractor that lacked it.

Good luck!

If you are only going to own one tractor, I agree!


Al

I think I'm beginning to understand why some of you guys have more than one. But, it appears that a few of you have a dozen or more? I think I need a cup and a Super A/100. What is a good, solid, running cub, in restorable condition worth?
L Mike

Little Mike wrote: What is a good, solid, running cub, in restorable condition worth?

Good question and no real answer. Depends on local. Some areas no Cubs and other areas quite a few.

I looked on Craig's List for Blakely, Ga. earlier today to see if there were Cubs advertised for sale. There were none.

Suggest reading the "For Sale/Wanted" section of this site. Several individuals have Cubs and implements for sale. Also check Craig's List for different states. There are several very nice looking Cubs in central Missouri for sale in the $2500- to $3000- range. -- But that is only the asking price. Actual sale price will be lower.

Restoreable, depends on the meaning. Cheaper in the long run to spend more money and purchase a Cub in good working condition with implement(s). Frequently much cheaper.

You've brought up 2 different topics:

cub + super A versus two of the same type of tractor. With two different tractors you can't interchange implements and other parts which is a pain.

cost of a good cub varies from one area to the next. Around my area the asking price of $2,500 and up (I don't know the actual sell price). Implements are $250 and up.

Todd