Farmall Cub

So I adjusted my clutch last night.
First I would like to say that the engineer who designed that set up should be roasted over a fire made of wood from his own head.
Now for a few concerns.
I do not have a lock nut behind the yoke, which I was actually thankful for as I'm not sure how I would have loosened it, but should I be concerned?
Secondly, it seemed that when I turned the yoke the entire shaft was turning and not just the yoke. I'm concerned that at some point the shaft will turn out of
whatever it's connected to inside and then

Comments???

Here's a couple pics of the 2 different setups. You must have the early type shown in the top image. Kinda impossible for it to turn much unless you have major issues so you should be good to go. Once you install the gotter cotter pins, things can't go anyplace on either end.

images from TM

I'm assuming you meant the clutch pedal freeplay adjustment. Did you also adjust the fingers on the pressure plate?

Rick

edit for spelling

vwfish wrote:I do not have a lock nut behind the yoke, which I was actually thankful for as I'm not sure how I would have loosened it, but should I be concerned?
Secondly, it seemed that when I turned the yoke the entire shaft was turning and not just the yoke. I'm concerned that at some point the shaft will turn out of
whatever it's connected to inside and then

If your shaft was turning with the yoke, then yes, something is wrong or has been replaced or repaired with non stock parts. Like Rick said, if your part looks like the top pic then you need no locknut if the pins are secured in place.

If you are running out of threads on the shaft inside the yoke, something is more than likely worn or out of adjustment within the clutch system and may be outside of the adjustment range.

I gotta do the same on Cub #2 and I am dreading it. Still got the head off getting ready to lap the valves this weekend. Once I hear the engine run, then I'll worry about the clutch. Sure looks a lot simpler and easier on Cub #1 with the external adjustment. Biggest problem there was the clutch finger adjustment. Free travel adjustment on the pedal was nothing. Anyone with tips to make it easier, I'm all ears. Unfortunately, I can't shrink my arms and the old lady is deathly afraid of grease. Lol

When adjusting the clutch fingers it helps have a second person rotate the engine with a hand crank so that you don't have to keep getting up from underneath the tractor. And a head light helps to keep a hand free (or hold a small mag light in your mouth!!!).

Todd

...of course this all presupposes that he has a Rockford clutch. If he has an Auburn clutch like I had, there is no way to adjust the fingers with standard tools.
My tractor got split at Cecil's last fall, at which time we replaced the clutch with a Rockford. What came out had to be a replacement since my S/N has the 'J' at the end indicating Rockford Clutch.

Here's the Auburn Clutch;


Peter

It was the clutch pedal free play adjustment.
I can't be sure, but I think there are some after market and/or "home made" parts shoved up there.
Once I pulled the pin from the yoke I had to put a screw driver on the bottom of the TOB and pry to get the yoke clear.
It didn't seem like the yoke was spinning on the end of the shaft, but I wasn't sure.
I guess at some point when the clutch needs adjusting it will either continue to work or the whole thing will come apart.
BTW, I could see the adjusting screws on the clutch fingers....can't wait for that fun.

My loader cub had that type clutch adjustment, and since a loader gets a lot more clutch use than most another type of use, while I was going over all the bearings, seals, etc. I also replaced it with the later one that has the adjustment on the pedal.