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While mowing this past week, I felt something wrong with the left brake on my ’52 Cub. It was definitely not working right, so when I finished I looked in the brake slot and saw the brake drum had migrated inboard toward the differential housing. So I took her (Bobbie) to the “hospital” (the shop I have the good fortune to use) and proceeded to remove and repair it.
I figured that this is a very common procedure, but there are still a few folks who have not done this and have not had the opportunity to watch it at a Cubfest. So I took photos at each step. (I am NOT a pro, so if any of my procedures are wrong, feel free to let me know.
REMOVE THE MOWER DECK
REMOVE DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE ASSEMBLY
INSTALL WEDGES IN FRONT AXLE
REMOVE WHEEL/WEIGHT AND FENDER
REMOVE BRAKE ROD CLEVIS AND COTTER PINS
SUPPORT FINAL WITH ENGINE HOIST
REMOVE LAST 2 BOLTS ON BOTTOM OF FINAL (after strapping under engine hoist!)
CAREFULLY SLIDE FINAL OUT OF DIFFERENTIAL
YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BRAKE DRUM WAS BEGINNING TO RUB ON THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL RETAINER BOLTS
NOTE HOW BRAKE DRUM HAD MIGRATED ALMOST 2" INBOARD (left) WITH BRAKE BAND BARELY TOUCHING
CAUSE? SET SCREW BROKEN AND APPARENTLY LOOSE
THE TOP 1/4" WAS THE ONLY BRAKE PAD CONTACT
BROKEN SET SCREW AND LOCK NUT (BOTTOM) WITH "NEW" ONE (TOP)
CLEAN UP FINAL OIL PAN HOUSING
REMOVE OLD DIFFERNTIAL SEAL (Why not? You have it this far apart and it's really some cheap/easy insurance!! I also "chased" all the bolt hole threads with a tap...makes reassembly easier AND precludes problems later on)
OLD AND NEW DIIFERENTIAL SEALS
DRIVING IN NEW SEAL (using a socket upside down, with a larger diameter than the seal, keeps you from going beyond flush with outer edge)
REMOVE TRANSMISSION "FULL LEVEL" PLUG (might as well check fluid and top off...this is the best access you will ever have!!!)
REMOVE FILLER PLUG
ADD OIL OF CHOICE (I used 90wt gear oil) UNTIL IT STARTS COMING OUT LOWER "FULL" PLUG HOLE
CLEAN RUST FROM BRAKE DRUM (worn edge was a small enough area, I decided to leave it)
DRILL OUT OLD RIVETS TO REMOVE OLD LINING
NEW AND OLD BRAKE LININGS (my tremendous thanks to Bob McCarty for making up these...I was SO glad I bought a set from him at a recent Cubfest!)
Sorry about the length of this post, and I must now continue on a second post due to photo limits. Thanks for getting this far! Look for part 2!
Good job and a nice "how to", Dale. I like to remove the retainer and put it on the bench. It has an o-ring on it to check and makes it easy to punch out the old seal from behind and more convenient to push the new seal in while at bench level. Great pics!
'60 FH Lo-Boy
'57 FH Cub "Rusty"
'56 FH Cub
(2) '48 Cubs
'75 IH 140 w/1000 loader
C-3 mower, FH Woods 42F, 22 sickle (2), 54A blade, L-54 blade, 194 plow, FH L-38 disk, FH LB disk, 144 cultivators, FH platform carrier
nice job documenting. Thanks !
Member Chapter 42 IHCC
1970 Farmall Cub
1946 Farmall B
1942 Farmall M
1200 Cub Cadet
That is a VERY good point! Wish I had done that...think I need to add that to the list of photos with at least a picture from the parts manual with part number. Actually, I never figured out where that o-ring was!! I have had the retainer off my SA, and not sure it had an o-ring, but I know the Cub parts manual had one shown. DANG! Oh well...always something to learn. Anyone else have something to add? (for next time!)
I have copied and combined parts 1 and 2 into the "How To" forum so they will be easily accessible in the future.
Great job Dale!
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