Thu May 16, 2013 8:56 am
i did a search but didn't find anything... got my newly bought cun up and running, redid the carb and a tune up... i took it out back and tried mowing down some weeds that are about 1' tall.. mows great on shorter stuff but can only take half the deck width or less each pass without the blades stopping.. the tractor keeps moving just the pto stops.. i know the pto works off the clutch because that starts just before the tractors starts moving but is there an adjustment for the pto? the clutch that runs the tractor does not slip and it works smooth.. maybe i need to keep looking, bet i can find something out on here..
Thu May 16, 2013 9:16 am
Are you sure the belt is not slipping... 1 foot high is too high for a a full cut. Make sure your blades are sharp.
Thu May 16, 2013 9:26 am
yea belt is not slipping,, i can see the pto pully stop rotating. blades are sharp and i removed the skirting around the deck to help with throwing the grass out
Thu May 16, 2013 9:31 am
Above, previous discussion on PTO problem(s).
Thu May 16, 2013 9:36 am
Is this a Farmall Cub, Cub Loboy or a Numbered Cub? Is there also a lot of grinding going on in the transmission when the PTO stops?
Thu May 16, 2013 9:37 am
Technically speaking, the Cub does not have a PTO "clutch."
A simple sliding coupler engages the PTO by connecting the transmission input shaft to the PTO shaft.
It should make an awful racket (i.e. grinding) when it is slipping or it should "pop out of gear."
When you engage the PTO it should engage with a positive "click." If it feels mushy, the shift pin or collar may be worn out.
The PTO can be serviced by removing the shifter and rear cover from the transmission. Sounds like yours is badly stripped out.
Try getting rid of the word "clutch" when you search on PTO problems. There's lots of detail out there.
Thu May 16, 2013 10:37 am
ok thanks,, i didn't know if the pto had a clutch or not. looks like i'll be taking the shifter off and the rear cover and see what i find. by the way there is no grinding noise when it stops rotating so i have no idea whats going on.. lever engages smooth and it feels like it clicks in place and it does not "pop out of gear" ..
Thu May 16, 2013 11:20 am
Sounds to me like your pto pulley is worn out and is spinning on the pto shaft. I have a fix, if that is the problem.
Fri May 17, 2013 4:39 pm
ok i found 2 problems... 1 one like bighoss said,, pully has somehow stripped the teeth and it fits tight enough to make the mower work on short grass but when i get to the tall stuff there must be too much pressure and it starts slipping.. looks like i'll either weld the pully on the shaft (easy way) or get a new pully and shaft (expensive way but the right way).. problem #2 the short belts that go to the outside blades are stretched and slip also.. can't figure out how to tighten them up, tried loosening bolts holding bearing housing but that didn't tighten em up enough, guessing the belts are just worn out and need new ones. .. i'm getting this old beast back to working condition sooner or later,, and having fun so far lol.
Fri May 17, 2013 6:00 pm
If you will be removing the pulley frequently, you of course will not weld it. But in my case, I have no plans to ever take off the pulley. So, I welded it on to the shaft. My thinking was both the shaft and pulley are worn out and will need to be replaced anyway. So you can replace them now or whenever you decide in the future to remove the pulley. Same cost now or later.... no harm done by welding.
Since I had a metal lathe available, I removed the pto shaft and chucked it in the lathe with 3 jaw chuck and deadcenter on the tailstock. I then located pulley to the shaft and using the cross slide to make sure there was no "runout" on the pulley. Tack welded the shaft to pulley, while still in the lathe. Removed from lathe and finished welding it. Works good with no wobble and slipping.
Oh, one more thing, I drilled out the pulley and shaft to 1/4" (I think) and tapped in a 1/4" drive pin. The welding is only to make it run true.
Fri May 17, 2013 8:30 pm
Make sure to have mower slightly lower in front when at regular mowing height. Level or low in back will add to the belt slipping problem. And if belt not slipping, it takes Much more power to run mower.
Sat May 18, 2013 5:04 am
danovercash... ok thats good to know since this little tractor doesn't have a ton of power to begin with. i also removed all the skirting around the deck so the grass will fly out wherever it wants to. i'm not using this to mow the yard (i have a small rider for that) i got this to keep the large pasture area out back (about 4 acres) under control since i sold my horses. also would a sickle bar work better in tall grass then the deck? from what i have been finding those look to slice right through it like buttter..
Sat May 18, 2013 5:33 am
A 59 inch deck is an excellent finish mower. I also use mine for rough cutting at maximum height and partial cuts depending on the grass. I have one area of particularly juicy grass that I can never take a full bite on. A 42 inch works much better, or a sickle bar, but I cut down multiflora rose bushes with my Cub and 59 inch mower when that was the only tool I had that could do the job. Lot of forward and reverse. Sitting up high saved a lot of skin shredding.
Sat May 18, 2013 8:23 am
Sickle mower is what the farmers use. May be slower than rotary mower. Down side is if thick you wil need to rake and bale it, upside, you can sell the hay, LOL!
Sat May 18, 2013 12:54 pm
yea ,, sell the hay to pay for playing on this little toy lol.. guess that means i'll need to look for a bailer also, and figure out how to attach one and make it work...
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