Farmall Cub

Hello ya’ll. I have not posted much on here but read a bit now and then. I know this question has been asked a million times, but I guess I am looking for some direct answers without reading a bunch of back posts.
I have a 47 circle cub I am wanting to repaint. Trying to do it myself. Not going for a show stopper but kind of for “nice”, or “not bad at tall”
I am wondering on what kind of paint to use? I am leaning towards the CaseIH dealer paint with hardner. Opinions?
What primer can I use? I am thinking rattle can so I can paint as I clean various parts. Will rustoleum primer work and be compatible with the case paint? The case primer says it need to be clean bare metal and rustoleum says it can be on cleaned rusty metal.
I have a sand blast cabinet and will clean smaller parts sand won’t hurt, but the motor and tranny I will probably wire off real good so to say it will be 100 percent clean probably won’t happen. Especially in pitted areas one won’t get the bottom of the pits 100%.
Do I need to clean the metal before priming with something? A clean cloth dampened with paint thinner?
Also some questions on colors.
For rear rims? I would like to re-galvanize them but that might be a future project.
Not for this cub but the IH white? On say a 56 grill or some implement rims etc., is it a white white, or more of a creamy white, I have not looked yet but does Case still sell this?
And on implements? The blue? What shade is this? Have seen guys use a lighter shade of blue and others use a darker more navy shade. I can see the remnants on some of my implements and it looks pretty dark but if you scratch around on it, it looks lighter. And does Case still have this?

Any advise would be very appreciated. I have faint hopes of getting this together for Red Power in Ohio this year. I know tall order.
I know this is a long list but thanks in advance.
Russel

P.S. On a side note does anyone happen to have a pair of 6” rear rims, somewhere near Illinois?

Using a small die grinder with a wire brush works well for removing paint and rust in tight spots and using an etching primer on pitted sheet metal and on cast iron works great from laying down a good painting base. No expert just chiming in with my experience. The IH paint is good, Kimball Midwest is good too in rattle cans. I actually really like the Kimball MIdwest paint for the coverage. Stay away from Valspar...fades in the sun. I painted a seat with it and it looks orange from fading. No big deal on a non trailer queen, just saying.

I've used rattle can primer before and it seems to work ok, but I prefer to use epoxy primer from a gun when I have enough parts to be primed to make cleaning the gun worth while. I've used rustoleum topcoat with success, but it will fade in the sun. I've also used Majic, Valspar, IH paints with reducer and hardner with real good success.

All this stuff has some real nasty side affects if your not using proper resperators and skin protection.

I would only use the CIH paint if I was not going to spend big bucks on automotive paint and safety equipment.
All the older chemistry red paints will fade just like they always did. Keeping it inside helps.
I compared a number of blue paints to NOS blue parts. The closest I found was Van Sickle implement blue. Hard to find. Ace Hardware has a rattle can blue that many use, but VS is a closer match according to the artist in the family.
Avoid Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Not all paints are compatible with the fish oil primer. Look for a primer that is compatible with the topcoat chemistry like "alkyd enamel" or "acrylic enamel". A professional paint store will set you up.

Once you get the old paint down to a good "tooth" you will be fine.

Important word on safety: You are dealing with LEAD paint. Be careful with the dust. This will cause brain damage, especially in children. The lives of entire families have been destroyed by refinishing something as simple as a bannister. Next, if you use hardener- there is no safe mask to use to protect you. Anyone here or anywhere else that will suggest otherwise will not pay your medical bills or support your family. The only safe option is remote breathing apparatus which you can buy for $300. You may not want to search old posts but the late George Willer would have loved to turn back the clock. You can't. But you can learn from others.

Hello,
Thanks for the info thus far, I guess I might need to get to a paint store and see what they have. Do you need another primer on top of an etching primer? Just trying to figure out what to get, so I can start on some the numerous small parts. Don't want to clean them twice after getting rusty again.

Bob in CT, where do you find such a breathing device? Have heard of the hardener being not so good for you. Was going to try to do it outside on a nice day.

Thanks,
Russel

I would not go any cheaper than caseIH paint. Saying the hardener is "not so good for you" is like saying WWII was "a little skirmish." If you don't have the equipment don't use a hardener. The caseIH paint is actually a pretty good quality paint, I know of a lot of "hard core" restorers that use it.

Al

Van Sickle Paint makes "International Blue", #460.

I bought my air supply equipment on eBay. I did not see it with quick check. Amazon has a Hobby Air Supply respirator for $450. Mine just has a nylon hood and the hose comes in over the top of your head and comes down over your face. Very cool and comfortable, but hoods are not great for seeing, but they are great for protection. You do NOT want paint mist with hardener contacting your eyes- you may as well be drinking the stuff as it will go straight into your body. I have a painting "shoot suit" and always wear gloves. The only place I use a respirator with cartridges is for mixing but I change them every day because they are only good for minutes and you can't smell the hardener when it starts to come through the cartridge. If you smell the paint through a cartridge, you have been breathing hardener for a long time and that is what gives some false confidence.

rjfcsa wrote:Was going to try to do it outside on a nice day.

To reiterate what the others have said, do not use hardener unless you are going to use the proper breathing apparatus. Doing it outside is not a substitute.

Russel:

Addressing some of your questions : - Paint, Decals & Other Finish ?'s - Farmall Paint Chart. Scroll down to the paint colours you want.

I know I am going to sound like a broken record, but it needs sayin....

No matter what you do working on finishes, be it removal, prepping or painting ensure you use the proper respirator for the job at hand. Doesn't matter if there is lead or not in the preceding coats - you do not want that dust in your nose or the rest of your respiratory system period It is bad stuff and not meant for the human respiration tract. Keep it out - wear the proper gear

Speaking from experience here .. I have COPD and PF. Not sure how much almost 50 years of finishing is responsible for it, but I do know it is a contributing factor. I had a very good finishing room and top end respirators etc., . I have used everything from base shellac's and varnishes, cellulose and nitro-cellulose finishes, multi-part/catalytics and resin type finishes over the years. Even acetone based adhesives etc., are not good for repeated use in improperly vented spaces. Respirators are mandatory for your health.


Even though it is too late for me to prevent COPD and PF, for me to continue to enjoy the things I like to do, I am now trying to find an outfit similar to Bob's. So far the best price I have found for a commercial unit here is $1,300.00Cdn. For me it is a no brainer - I need an external air supplied breathing system - period .. if I want to do anymore finishing. So ... bite the bullet.

My suggestion would be that if you are going to be finishing at all, and I don't care whether anyone uses hardener or not .. the paint vapours, vapours from the thinners, reducers etc., all will contribute to lung issues so buy the very best respirator or better yet an external air supplied breathing system if you can. It will be well worth it. I am not even sure that Low VOC's should be applied without respiratory protection. I know I will be using a respirator for that exercise in the future.

Bob, can you provide a link to the one or one similar to yours on Amazon? That would be a lot of help.

This is the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fresh-Air-Respirator-breathing-vinyl-painters-Hood-system-SAR-/380446538921?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5894617ca9

I have 100 feet of hose and get plenty of air.

Hello ya’ll,
Been gone for a few days, and just now catching up.
I did not mean to make light of the vapor dangers, its just how I talk. If one asks they could chew on one of my lead muzzleloader bullets, I would probably say, “well it taint a very good idea”.
Bob, I was looking around on ebay and found the model you are showing, and I ordered one up from their web site.
http://www.turbineproducts.com/

I had a theory a while back, on the right shade of blue. If one looks at a good sales brochure of sat an early cub they have a lot blue on the pages, title blocks, etc. Is that blue the same shade? Just a thought.

Also what red does every one use? The harvester 2150 or do they still make the #50 red at the dealer?

Thanks for all the info.
Russel

Russel:

There are a number of choices that you can make. The McCormick Deering IH Farmall, Paint Chart shows most of the information that we are pretty sure of. Pre 1949 tractors were painted Harvester Red which is IH50. All post 1961 Farmall's were 2150 Red. I guess the choice is yours .. but be aware that IH50 may be difficult to match although we do have the paint codes for DITZ/PPG, Martin Seymour and Dupont.

Medium blue used on Chevy trucks in the early '50s is close match. Krylon makes a good match for it.