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cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
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cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
Hi all, I hope I can get some help for my dad's farmall. It had a leaking radiator and he poured in lock tight, yeah the blue glue like stuff. He had a stroke and seisures so we're contributing this mistake to that. Anyway what do we need to do now? He has run the tractor but I don't know for how long. I know we need to replace the radiator but what else should we do? Thanks so much, I really appreciate it.
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Re: cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
You got me with a new one on that particular treatment. Since I've never added lock tight to coolant (or to plain water), I don't know what it does. Did it mix in or float on top? My guess is that it won't hurt anything. Drain it out, refill and forget about it.
Maybe someone else will have a better idea of the potential effects.
Maybe someone else will have a better idea of the potential effects.
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Re: cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
If you still have the bottle, verify the maker. I'd then go to their website (like Loctite.com, or Permatex.com) and using the "contact us", send them an email with your question. Fortunately most of those bottles are small enough that there probably wasn't much put in the radiator. If you drain the radiator (which you'll need to do in order to replace it), you can see if it comes out unless it is stuck in the radiator tubes. Without testing a sample, I don't know if it floats or sinks in a water/antifreeze mixture. If the Cub wasn't run long enough for it to get hot, it's probably confined to the radiator.
Bob
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Re: cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
G'day to you and well now that is a different situation . Having suffered a number of strokes, I get how things that one would never do under normal circumstances would in actuality occur because of the altered thought processes until recovery. So without more clarity on which product he used, I am assuming that he used the Blue Gasket sealant and not the threadlocker.
My advice would be to take the radiator off. Clean the bolster/coolant reservoir really well to eliminate any traces of the sealant. Take the rad itself to a good radiator repair shop and have them flush and pressure test it. Any leaks found at that time have repaired. The engine may need to be flushed .. I think Eugene is our resident expert on that one .... Not sure how much of that stuff may have gotten into the water jacket especially if it wasn't run long. As it is a thermo-siphon system, it has to get up to temp before it moves a lot. You may be lucky and the sealant will be localized to the rad and the bolster .. maybe the upper and lower hoses.
If it is the thread locker, the cleaning may be all that it needs. The rad still needs to be repaired to eliminate the leaks. Take it to a rad shop.
There are lots of resources available to our members - suggest you follow the links below, read the Owner's Manual, look at the relevant pages in the TC-37 Parts Catalogs and check out the relevant Blue Ribbon Service Manuals.
My advice would be to take the radiator off. Clean the bolster/coolant reservoir really well to eliminate any traces of the sealant. Take the rad itself to a good radiator repair shop and have them flush and pressure test it. Any leaks found at that time have repaired. The engine may need to be flushed .. I think Eugene is our resident expert on that one .... Not sure how much of that stuff may have gotten into the water jacket especially if it wasn't run long. As it is a thermo-siphon system, it has to get up to temp before it moves a lot. You may be lucky and the sealant will be localized to the rad and the bolster .. maybe the upper and lower hoses.
If it is the thread locker, the cleaning may be all that it needs. The rad still needs to be repaired to eliminate the leaks. Take it to a rad shop.
There are lots of resources available to our members - suggest you follow the links below, read the Owner's Manual, look at the relevant pages in the TC-37 Parts Catalogs and check out the relevant Blue Ribbon Service Manuals.
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Re: cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
Warm weather is upon us. I would set the tractor on the drive way. Remove radiator and water manifold on lower right side of block. Flush out the block and bolster, then back flush the block from the top.
Let set in sun a day or two and then flush again.
Actually, I don't think the substance did any damage. It would either float, or if heavier than the coolant mix, plug up some of the radiator tubes, or sink to the bottom of the bolster. If water soluble it will wash out during the flushing process.
Let set in sun a day or two and then flush again.
Actually, I don't think the substance did any damage. It would either float, or if heavier than the coolant mix, plug up some of the radiator tubes, or sink to the bottom of the bolster. If water soluble it will wash out during the flushing process.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: cub farmall lock tight poured in radiator
Just flush it out good and replace the leaking radiator. There's a lot worse in there than loc-tite.
The stuff is either floating in the top tank of the radiator, or down in the lower tank in the bolster. Cubs don't have water pumps so it didn't circulate.
The stuff is either floating in the top tank of the radiator, or down in the lower tank in the bolster. Cubs don't have water pumps so it didn't circulate.
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