Farmall Cub

I have a few questions regarding clutch repair or replacement. I need to replace one of the pressure plate fingers (release levers).

#1. Can just the damaged finger be replaced on the current pressure plate, or is it under too much tension? Why it failed I do not know, but it appears that is the only issue with the clutch.

#2. If I remove and replace the current pressure plate, in the manual it appears that I would need a pressure plate adjusting bridge for compression. It appears that bridging tool is needed for both disassembly and assembly. Is that tool necessary, and can one be purchased?

#3. Does an entire clutch kit with the pressure plate and clutch disc come pre-assembled where I would not need the adjusting bridge tool?

#4. If I place an entire new assembly are there many adjustments?

#4. I've reviewed posts on automobile bearings adapted for the TOB. If I need to replace the TOB is a change from the graphite indicated?

#5. I assume that it is not recommended to drive the tractor until fixed. It actually clutches perfectly right now.




Thanks. I know that is a lot of questions.

Todd

Good camera work!

I'm thinking that the finger in question burned because it was out of adjustment (the adjusting nut turned down too much) and constantly rubbing on the graphite, creating a lot of heat. Can't tell from this angle, but may have damaged the graphite also, but there seems to be plenty of graphite left.

There appear to be extra parts between the springs. In the lower part of the picture you can see some sort of tool or debris that is lodged behind the lower spring and sticks out a couple inches. Behind the springs appears to be a block of wood or some sort of rectangular object. Strange looking photo. Do you know what these objects are and why they are there?

I believe the thing that looks like a block of wood is actually the bracket for the springs that the camera flash highlited, but the other part I have no idea what it is, looks kind of like a bent spoon.

I looked carefully at the clutch again through the hand hole. John is correct on the "block of wood". The other, "bent spoon" is simply the mounting platform that bolts to the clutch plate. The distortion of a photograph is hard to believe at times.

Are there any takers on my questions above?

Oh, I looked at the TOB and it may be grooved to the point where it needs to be replaced.

Thanks,

Todd

Tennessee Clutch & Supply located 1995 Nolensville Rd, Nashville TN 37211 will rebuild just like new, your clutch disc and pressure plate. The last one I did there was $55 + sales tax. Don't know if they ship or not, but a phone call would find out. Their numbers are 615-242-4163 or 1-800-262-5882.

Great quality work.

Here is a little addition that you can easily make and install yourself once you have split the cub. It would have saved the TOB. In fact, if you install it, you would not have to replace the TOB.

"To keep the fingers and throwout bearing from destroying each other, I decided to install a heavy-duty washer between them. On one side of the washer I welded a 1/2" long steel pipe that was just big enough to fit loosely over the shaft. That pipe keeps the washer roughly perpendicular to the shaft. I installed the washer between the fingers and the throwout bearing, with the pipe on the finger side of the washer."

To find post containing above, search for "destroying each other". Include the quote marks in the search.

Thanks TulalipJames. I re-read your original post. I couldn't picture the modification in your original post and I 'm still having trouble without a photo. It sounds like you basically reinforced the fingers with a washer. Then adjust the clutch pedal to make up the difference.

Are the metal throw out bearings greaseless, like the one Mr. Thompson mentioned? I looked it up on Steiners web site and it isn't much more expensive than the graphite bearing. I would imagine that the metal would have more friction and be harder on the clutch fingers.

Todd

TJG wrote:....... I would imagine that the metal would have more friction and be harder on the clutch fingers........

The whole reason to use an automotive type bearing instead of the graphite is to change the physcial point where moving parts meet stationary ones. With the graphite moving fingers meet the stationary tob right at the surface of the graphite. With the automotive type bearing moving clutch fingers contact the stationary bearing BUT part of the bearing THEN starts turning along with the clutch finger. The actual bearing, be it ball, roller or what ever is where the moving part meeets the stationary now. A ball bearing can handle the transition a whole lot better than a greasy block of graphite.

I have looked at those pictures many times, and cannot understand how that single finger could be that worn and heated as the colors seem to indicate without destroying the graphite bearing. I think that when you get it apart you will find another problem also.