48 cub ignition switch

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1990caprice
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48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Tue Jun 18, 2013 1:58 am

i was hoping to turn the motor over today with the starter and it wouldnt. the wiring on the switch was in rough shape and so did the switch itself. it is one of those generic toggle switches with 2 prongs both prongs arre connected and it was rewired at sometime with a homemade harness. anyways i want to replace it with a more oem type push in and out switch. i am having difficulty deciding which one to buy it has a magneto and i noticed the magneto switch has one prong and the electric ignition has 2 prongs. it seems obvious to order the electric igntion switch with 2 prongs, but is there a difference other than the number of connectors? thanks

1990caprice
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:07 am

oh and it was converted over to 12volts as it has an alternator and had a 12 volt battery on it. if that matters. thanks allot i cant wait for this tractor to run again with ya'lls help

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby Gary Dotson » Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:51 am

If your mag is still original, with it's internal coil, you need the 1 terminal switch. If it's been converted to battery ignition, with an external coil, it will require the 2 terminal switch.

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby Rick Spivey » Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:18 am

1990caprice wrote:i was hoping to turn the motor over today with the starter and it wouldnt. the wiring on the switch was in rough shape and so did the switch itself. it is one of those generic toggle switches with 2 prongs both prongs arre connected and it was rewired at sometime with a homemade harness.


Just to be clear, that switch has nothing to do with the starter turning over. If two prong with battery ignition, it allows current to flow to the coil. If one prong with magneto, it allows you to ground out the points, shutting down the tractor. So it controls whether the tractor will run or not, but nothing about the starter turning over.

I hope that was helpful.
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby danovercash » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:35 am

If you can't find a one terminal switch, could you not use a two terminal switch with one terminal to mag and the other to ground?
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby BIGHOSS » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:50 am

Yes, that will work, but it messes with your mind. Because, you are pulling it out to stop and pushing it in to start. :? :? :? :?
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:45 pm

it does have an external coil so 2 prong it is. the battery connections were also pretty bad so that probably had allot to do with the starter not engaging. on old gm starters with the 2 connectors i know you could jump the starter with a screw driver by touching the studs the starting system connects to. i am just getting at is there any way to test a starter? thanks

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby danovercash » Tue Jun 18, 2013 1:43 pm

To test starter make sure tractor is in neutral. Hook jumper cables to known good battery, (12v) hook ground cable to bolt holding starter, touch positive to terminal on top of starter. If good, starter will turn. Did I mention make sure tractor is in neutral! Or you can take the starter off and do the same thing. Either way good idea to clean starter contacts and check continuity and resistance. BTW what kind of shape are the battery cables in, the problem may be there.
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:17 pm

the battery cables may be the culprit the tractor sat half under a shed for 13 years. the back half was out in the elements and the battery was not covered the insulation on cables is cracked. so they need to be cleaned or more than likely replaced.i still want to check the starter. thanks allot

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby bythepond88 » Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:49 pm

Just to clarify what Danovercash posted, once you have clipped the jumper to the starter post, you will still have to push on the switch to get the power to the starter. If that doesn't get the starter moving, remove the switch from the starter and touch the positive cable to the contact on the starter itself. If that works then the switch is defective.
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1990caprice
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:16 pm

well my starter is dead . guess i'll have to find anouther one. thanks for the help

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby danovercash » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:21 pm

Send it to a good repair/rebuild shop. May just need brushes.
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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby muleboss » Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:14 pm

1990caprice wrote:i was hoping to turn the motor over today with the starter and it wouldnt. the wiring on the switch was in rough shape and so did the switch itself. it is one of those generic toggle switches with 2 prongs both prongs arre connected and it was rewired at sometime with a homemade harness. anyways i want to replace it with a more oem type push in and out switch. i am having difficulty deciding which one to buy it has a magneto and i noticed the magneto switch has one prong and the electric ignition has 2 prongs. it seems obvious to order the electric igntion switch with 2 prongs, but is there a difference other than the number of connectors? thanks


The one prong switch will only kill the mag. You will need another switch or something to keep the voltage from feeding through the alternator and coil when tractor is not running. Two different things. It can be done with one switch, but easier and less expensive with two switches.

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby 1990caprice » Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:55 pm

well i got a new switch. looking at a wiring schematic it shows the ammeter connected to one prong and the coil/ ballast resister connected to the other. Does it matter which prong is connected to the ammeter and which prong is connected to the coil? thanks allot!

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Re: 48 cub ignition switch

Postby Rudi » Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:38 pm

David:

Does this help?

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