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i was hoping to turn the motor over today with the starter and it wouldnt. the wiring on the switch was in rough shape and so did the switch itself. it is one of those generic toggle switches with 2 prongs both prongs arre connected and it was rewired at sometime with a homemade harness. anyways i want to replace it with a more oem type push in and out switch. i am having difficulty deciding which one to buy it has a magneto and i noticed the magneto switch has one prong and the electric ignition has 2 prongs. it seems obvious to order the electric igntion switch with 2 prongs, but is there a difference other than the number of connectors? thanks
If your mag is still original, with it's internal coil, you need the 1 terminal switch. If it's been converted to battery ignition, with an external coil, it will require the 2 terminal switch.
Just to be clear, that switch has nothing to do with the starter turning over. If two prong with battery ignition, it allows current to flow to the coil. If one prong with magneto, it allows you to ground out the points, shutting down the tractor. So it controls whether the tractor will run or not, but nothing about the starter turning over.
I hope that was helpful.
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
If you can't find a one terminal switch, could you not use a two terminal switch with one terminal to mag and the other to ground?
Yes, that will work, but it messes with your mind. Because, you are pulling it out to stop and pushing it in to start.
We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give......Winston Churchill
it does have an external coil so 2 prong it is. the battery connections were also pretty bad so that probably had allot to do with the starter not engaging. on old gm starters with the 2 connectors i know you could jump the starter with a screw driver by touching the studs the starting system connects to. i am just getting at is there any way to test a starter? thanks
To test starter make sure tractor is in neutral. Hook jumper cables to known good battery, (12v) hook ground cable to bolt holding starter, touch positive to terminal on top of starter. If good, starter will turn. Did I mention make sure tractor is in neutral! Or you can take the starter off and do the same thing. Either way good idea to clean starter contacts and check continuity and resistance. BTW what kind of shape are the battery cables in, the problem may be there.
the battery cables may be the culprit the tractor sat half under a shed for 13 years. the back half was out in the elements and the battery was not covered the insulation on cables is cracked. so they need to be cleaned or more than likely replaced.i still want to check the starter. thanks allot
Just to clarify what Danovercash posted, once you have clipped the jumper to the starter post, you will still have to push on the switch to get the power to the starter. If that doesn't get the starter moving, remove the switch from the starter and touch the positive cable to the contact on the starter itself. If that works then the switch is defective.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Send it to a good repair/rebuild shop. May just need brushes.
The one prong switch will only kill the mag. You will need another switch or something to keep the voltage from feeding through the alternator and coil when tractor is not running. Two different things. It can be done with one switch, but easier and less expensive with two switches.
well i got a new switch. looking at a wiring schematic it shows the ammeter connected to one prong and the coil/ ballast resister connected to the other. Does it matter which prong is connected to the ammeter and which prong is connected to the coil? thanks allot!
Does this help?
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